Migration

GPS map of the beluga whale ascent. Preparing for the ascent. Mount Belukha (4506 m) and Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola (4082 m): routes, recommendations. day. BBS pass - Mensu glacier - Delone pass - Tomsk sites - Akkem lake

Group meeting place and time:

Meeting

Meeting ALL of our groups takes place on the first day of the tour in the city of Barnaul: from 8:30 to 9:30 at the airport, from 10:00 to 10:30 at the railway station (local time). We will meet you with a “Wanderer” sign at the exit from the arrivals hall or at the main entrance of the station. We will also have flight, train and telephone numbers, so we will contact you in any case.

Those. if your tour is from 10/02-16/02, then we will meet you on 10/02 from 8:30 to 9:30 at the airport or from 10:00 to 10:30 at the railway station, depending on where you arrive.

Answer to a frequently asked question: “No, you cannot come by bus that arrives from Novosibirsk at 11:00, 11:30, etc... If you arrive on the last flight to Barnaul at 8:55, we will wait for you!”

Back

We return to Barnaul at approximately 21:00 (local time).

All planes from Barnaul take off only in the morning. Since we arrive in the city in the evening, you need to buy a ticket the next day after the end of the tour! You can spend the night in a hostel or hotel. You can view and book a room on Booking.com.

Dear tourists! Many airlines now sell tickets, the price of which does not include baggage, lunch, service charge, etc., and ONLY hand luggage. Be careful when purchasing air tickets!

ATTENTION! You can purchase tickets ONLY after submitting an application and confirmation by the regional manager of availability.

Transport:

Most of the route goes along Russian off-road roads! Due to constant shaking, dust sometimes gets into the interior. The seats in the car are good, but not super comfortable, and the distances are very long, so you should be mentally prepared. But all these inconveniences will pay off with interest.

Accommodation:

On days 1 and 12 of the tour we will spend the night in houses without amenities. On the territory of the camp site there is a bathhouse, toilet, washbasins, electricity and a storage room in which you can leave things you don’t need during the trip.

On other days - accommodation in 2-3-4-bed tourist tents.

ATTENTION! We can place you with other tourists in our group of any gender.

During the day 0...+25, at night -5...+10.

In the mountains, the weather is cool and very changeable - even at the height of summer, within a few hours, you can experience all seasons. Bad weather, snowfalls, strong winds and frosts are possible at the top.

Requirements for participants:

No special mountaineering training is required, but is encouraged.

Participants must be in good physical shape and endurance. During the hike, everyone carries their personal belongings themselves + some public equipment.

Required vaccinations:

Vaccination requires at least 3 weeks: you will need to get 2 injections, one tomorrow, and the second in half a month. During the year (before the start of the season) you will receive a third injection. From now on, you will only need to be vaccinated once every three years. The cost of a domestic vaccine is 1200 rubles, an imported one is 1500 rubles. You can get vaccinated at the address: Moscow, Maly Kazenny Lane, 5 (Mechnikov Institute), from 9.00 to 18.00.

Altai. Belukha 2010,July 20 – August 2Route thread: St. Petersburg – Moscow – Barnaul – village. Tungur base "Vysotnik" - rafting on the river. Katun to the mouth of the river. Akkema – campsite “At the Three Birches” – campsite “At the Cedar” – campsite at Lake Akkemskoye – campsite “Tomsk Nights” – camp Big Berelskoye Saddle – peak of Belukha – camp Big Berelskoye Saddle – Lake Akkemskoye – through the Karaturek pass to the camp – parking lot Kedrovye Polyany - Kucherlinskoye Lake - r. Kucherla - village "Tyungur" base "At Tatyana's" - Biysk - Barnaul - Moscow - St. Petersburg

Participants: Dmitry, Ekaterina, Timofey

Barnaul - Altai Mountains - Mount Belukha (Tomsk overnights)

1 day

Timofey and I arrived in Barnaul by train from Moscow. At the station, recognizing us by our backpacks, the drivers approached us. They began to actively force us to take us to Tungur (for 10 thousand rubles), from where our route was planned, the goal of which was Mount Belukha.

But Timokha said that we would find it cheaper. And we stayed at the Barnaul hotel for 700 rubles. per person per day. Later we found out that there are cheaper hotels. At night we took a taxi to the airport and met another participant - Katya, who had flown in from Sochi. There are now three of us. Tim called his friend and he agreed to pick us up for 6,000 rubles.

In principle, “shuttles” - “Gazelles” with a trailer, go from bases located in Tungur (“Vysotnik”, “White Golden Eagle”, etc.), perhaps if you call them in advance, it will also turn out cheaper.


Day 2

At 7 am we loaded into the car and hit the road, through the cities of Biysk, Gorno-Altaisk, along the Chuysky tract. For a snack we stopped at roadside eateries - located in villages (remodeled into national dwellings of the Altai people).

The border pass was issued directly at the border post. It's free. But we need to fill out a lot of different pieces of paper, and since there were still applicants, the whole process took us about an hour.

In the village Tungur arrived at 19 o'clock, i.e. spent 12 hours on the road. We stopped at the Vysotnik camp site - in double camping tents for 400 rubles. per person. Shower and bath for a fee. You can put up your own tent for 100 rubles.

We also remember the base for its Italian toilets installed in wooden toilet-type booths, and for the killer markup on alcohol - the cost of a bottle of vodka is 1000 rubles. (in the village nearby - 150 rubles.) Drinking your own alcoholic drinks at Vysotnik is prohibited. However, a commercial group with their guides celebrated the successful ascent of Belukha in the cafe. The guys washed their badges.

They immediately offered us a ride up to the mountain on horseback. Our group needed 5 horses - that’s 5,000 rubles. Another option is to drive through the Kazuyak pass to the Three Birches parking lot (3 hours, which replaces one walking day). Unfortunately, there were no seats in the car; we had to wait another day before the next departure. Despite the fact that this is one of the most economical options, we wanted to get to the mountain quickly, so we chose another option.

At Vysotnik they organize a drop-off - rafting on the Katun River. This shortens the path a little and gives additional adventures. Cost – 800 rub. Travel time is about two hours.

Useful articles:

  • Legends of Mount Belukha
  • Altai bases
  • Mountain Altai
  • Lakes of Altai
  • Mountains – Altai for climbers and tourists


Day 3

At about 11 am we boarded the raft and set off. There was an instructor-tour guide in the boat with us. He told us about the Altai Territory - Mount Belukha is just one of the many attractions of these places. Altai gravestones floated past us, the slope where Comrade Sukhov, the legendary Red commander (not to be confused with the hero of the same name in the film “White Sun of the Desert”), was ambushed and died. So we got to the confluence of the Akkem River and the Katun. We unloaded, put on our backpacks, and set off along the trail, through the Altai meadows and up the Akkem.

This place is rich not only in all sorts of natural beauties and medicinal herbs, but also in evil ticks that were eager to prey on us. What did the signs along the way say?

By evening we reached the parking lot “At Three Birches” - this is a standard place to set up camp. But there was no one else there except us.


4 day

In the morning we set off along a well-paved path, which, winding, went either into a cedar forest or pressed close to the river. By 16:00 we reached the parking lot “U Kedr” - this is an equipped tourist bivouac. People were already settled there. We pushed them back a little. The weather turned bad - it rained in the evening and at night.

5 day

In the morning the weather improved and we moved on. The forest gave way to forest-tundra, and then to alpine meadows. There was a lot of honeysuckle. I tried this berry for the first time. By 15 o’clock we reached the “barrels” - this is the base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the shelter of the same “Vysotnik”. We checked in and left supplies with the rescuers for the return trip. Having passed a little past Lake Akkem, on the shores of which the Roerichists and other esotericists were based, we set up camp on a stream at the place where it flows into the lake - from here Mount Belukha, where the highest point of Altai is located, seems especially huge.


Day 6

We crossed the bridge. The trail led us up to the glacier. We walked past the chapel, stopping for a moment. The path got lost and we came to the kurumniks. Crawling along the kurumniks on four bones, we saw a good path below near the glacier, which we lost. But they decided not to lose height and continued to crawl over the rocks. The slope pressed against the glacier and we crossed onto it. It became much easier to walk.

We walked without cats. The glacier is quite flat, dry, cracks are avoided. And ahead is the Great Akkem Wall - the most difficult route to the top of the mountain. On the left we saw a rocky hill with a house. This is the first camp from which the ascent to Mount Belukha begins. They call it Tomsk overnight stays (or camps). We turned there and approached. There are a lot of people there: some are practicing on the ice, others are waiting for their people from the mountain, sunbathing in the burning mountain sun. There is also a kind of altar made from the things of the fallen climbers. Rare things like wooden ice axes and these self-welded cats are also kept in the shelter.
We got acquainted with the people and learned that tomorrow two groups were going to the mountain - guys from Slovakia with a guide and a commercial group with two guides from the Ministry of Emergency Situations. We were asked to join the commercial group as assistants. We didn't mind.

Assault on the mountain


Day 7

Climbing. We got up early in the morning. We just rubbed our eyes and saw a huge avalanche come down from the Akkem wall. An amazing sight when you look from the outside. The ascent began by overcoming the Delane ice pass.

Previously, railings (ropes) were hung on its ice slope, but since they tempted unprepared people (especially those for whom Mount Belukha has, first of all, spiritual significance) and they climbed the pass, creating a problem for the local Ministry of Emergency Situations, the ropes were removed. Now each group hangs and removes its ropes independently.

Among the climbers was a good ice climber. He went first. They hung up the railings and everyone climbed up on their jumars. There is very little space at the crossing point. Therefore, everyone who climbed immediately descended to the other side, to the closed Mensu glacier. On the glacier, 5 people tied up and walked along the snow fields, fortunately there was a trail of previous climbers, which competently avoided the cracks. This is how we reached the pre-pass takeoff called the Big Berel Saddle.

We climbed up. It was 16 o'clock. There was a camp at the pass. These were the ones who were waiting below. They have already gone to the mountain.

We dug places for tents and a hole for a toilet. The rise was scheduled for 3 am, but depending on the weather. At night she deteriorated. Everything tightened up, it suddenly became warmer and a strong thunderstorm began. Dreams about the Summit began to slowly melt away.


Day 8

At 3 am it was still cloudy and a strong wind was blowing. We decided to continue sleeping. But at 6 o'clock all the bad weather blew away. The wind was still strong, but the sky was turning blue. We decided to go with the Slovaks and their guide, breaking away from the commercial group. At night, avalanches occurred along our route, and we had to crawl in a bundle through huge piles of sticky snow. Having overcome a couple of bergs, we entered the field of the Belukhinsky circus. We started climbing the Belukhinsky pass. The slope is quite steep, but snowy. Holds up well.

We climbed the pass. There the snow was dense and rocky teeth stuck out. After catching our breath a little, we moved along the ridge to the top. There is a small hole in front of the top. Then take off - and here She is. We came in and congratulated each other and took pictures.

The weather began to deteriorate. Mount Belukha, whose height is 4560 m, towered above the clouds into which we had to descend. And we hurried down, letting the commercial group through and cheering on its participants.

We went down to the pass, dropped the rope and took turns rappelling. Avalanches started in the middle of the slope. We were hooked by one. But everyone was at the station and secured, and Katya was already below on the rope. So everything worked out fine. Just a mouth full, nose, and everything else, of snow. But, having spat, they came to their senses and went down.

At the bottom, having tied up, we walked along the path and met a group that for some reason had left so late. They looked at us and the avalanche, and returned to camp. When we arrived at the camp it was already getting dark, an hour later a commercial group arrived. They had their own adventures there, but everyone remained alive and healthy.


Day 9

In the morning there was heavy fog, but there was almost no wind. We packed up our tents and went - we descended from the saddle and walked through the snowy fields of Mensu to the Delane Pass. We hung the ropes and everyone went down to the Tomsk sites. The commercial group stayed in the house, and the Slovaks and I decided to go to Lake Akkem.

While we were walking along the glacier, the weather turned bad again, the wind blew, and it began to snow. Just before camp I was so tired that I could barely move my legs. I rested every 10 minutes. In the evening we reached the lake, set up a tent in the places where we had stood before and fell.

Useful articles:

Hiking in Altai after descending from Mount Belukha

10 day

We got up late and decided to take a day's rest. A group approached and remained at the Tomsk sites. The Ministry of Emergency Situations invited us to the bathhouse. After the bath we sat and talked about this and that. Because We had days left for bad weather, so we decided to go back a different way, i.e. take a walk.


Day 11

From the lake we walked past the rescue "Barrels", past the weather station, along the trail to the Karaturek pass. The climb is simple, but very long, the trail is well-paved, but winds through serpentines. The area was swarming with squeaky animals that looked like guinea pigs.


12 day

We continued walking down the path; it led us into a dense forest and split there. Not knowing the way, we went right. This path led more downhill than the one on the left. And they were not mistaken. She took us to Lake Kucherlinskoye. We rested a bit at the lake and walked down the river that flows out of it. There are many stops along the path that goes along the river; choosing one of them, we stopped for the night.

Day 13

We continued walking along the path, which almost turned into a road. The place was snake-like - a couple of vipers were basking right in our path.

We saw an advertisement on a post from a private owner about pick-up with a telephone. Cellular communication has already appeared. They called. A man arrived in a Niva. On the way we started talking. He advised us to stop not at Vysotnik, but at Tatyana’s, saying that it was better and cheaper there. And so it turned out.

Tatyana, a very sweet and friendly woman, received us and found us seats in the Gazelle, which went the next day to Biysk. At the base we pitched a tent for 100 rubles, ordered a sauna for 50 rubles. per person.

In the evening, traveling musicians entertained Tatiana’s guests by playing Tuvan musical instruments: the harp (khomus) and the tambourine. So we had a real creative farewell evening with the Altai Mountains and Mount Belukha.

Day 14

We drove all day to Biysk, and then took a bus to Barnaul. We bought tickets without any problems. Therefore, in the evening we were already in the city. That night Katya flew away by plane. I saw her off, and in the afternoon I had a train to Moscow.

Dmitry Ryumkin, especially for

Mount Belukha is the highest point of Altai. It is located in the Ust-Koksinsky region of the Altai Republic on the border with Kazakhstan in the Katunsky Range. The Katun River originates from the slopes of the ridge. The nearest villages are Kucherla and Tungur. In Altai the name of the mountain sounds like Uch-Sumer - three-headed. And indeed, in the Belukha massif there are three peaks nearby - Belukha Eastern, Belukha Western and Peak Delaunay. Together with the peak of Korona Altai, they form a steep wall, which is called the Akkem wall. Beneath the almost vertical Akkem wall lies the Akkem glacier. Belukha - “Queen of Altai”, is such a beautiful and majestic mountain that it is impossible to remain indifferent. It is not without reason that since ancient times it has been considered a sacred mountain among the local population. The beauty and amazing, even mystical power of Belukha was described by the great Russian artist Nicholas Roerich. For a long time he lived and traveled in the Altai Mountains and painted many paintings of the mysterious sacred Altai mountains. The Russian name of Mount Belukha is due to the presence of abundant snow-white cover of the Katunsky Range. Another name for Belukha Kadyn-Bazhi is “top of the Katun”. The summit of Belukha was first conquered on July 26, 1914 from the south side. This was done by two brothers Boris and Mikhail Tronov. Later in 1933, Vitaly Abalakov’s group managed to take a more difficult route from the north. These days there are several routes to the mountain. The easiest way to climb is from the south; the route from the Tomsk sites through the Delaunay Pass and the Mensu Glacier is a little more difficult. The most difficult and dangerous routes are along the Akkem Wall.

How to get there

The nearest railway station is in the city of Biysk. From Biysk you need to travel by car to the village of Tyungur, where a good road ends. In the village of Tyungur there are several tourist bases where you can stay overnight, have lunch in the canteen, and order transport for further transportation. Then the road goes through the Kuzuyak pass to the parking lot at the “Three Birches”; this road is passable only for off-road vehicles. From “Three Birches” there is a well-trodden path along the Akkem River to Lake Akkem, where there is a weather station and many camps for tourists and climbers. In the area of ​​Lake Akkem we go through several very popular tourist routes with visits to the most beautiful places of the Katun Range - the Karaturek Pass, the Valley of the Seven Lakes, the Yarlu Gorge, etc. It is possible to travel to Lake Akkem on horseback.




Dates: July 20 - August 5, 2018.
Type of tourism: mountain.
Difficulty category: the first with elements of the fourth.

Belukha is rightfully considered the King Mountain of Altai. She spread her wing-ridges over hundreds of kilometers. Belukha is visible from various peaks of the Altai Mountains, 100-200 km away! Climbing the Tsar Mountain Belukha is a mandatory item in the program of any person who considers himself a mountain climber. Any person who sees the beautiful mountain in a photo or painting dreams of being on top of Belukha. With us you can make your dream come true and climb the mountain.

While food and equipment are being transported on horseback to Lake Akkem, we cross the Karaturek Pass relatively lightly, thus acclimatizing. We distribute the products and move to the top. We conduct ice training under the mountain. We climb to the top and organize an assault camp. Early in the morning we set out to climb. We climb and contemplate the amazing landscapes from the highest mountain in Altai. We go down to the assault camp. We return to Lake Akkem and, if there is time left, rest and make radial trips into the surrounding gorges. We are returning home.

Program specifics: Belukha is a difficult, dangerous mountain that requires a focused climb with days to spare. She doesn't like it when people try to grab her. It is necessary to acclimatize well before the ascent and during the ascent do everything with concentration, slowly, leaving time to wait out the bad weather.

Moreover, in our opinion, these mountains require a clear, focused state of mind, a kind of immersion in the area, which should be carried out gradually and with pleasure.

And then there is the greatest likelihood that the Belukhin event will remain in memory as something solid, beautiful with an even beginning, a brilliant middle and an even ending.

This is precisely the main quality of our program - a gradual approach to Mount Belukha, as a result of which the group receives excellent acclimatization. Join us!

Travel schedule:

20.07. Evening departure from Novosibirsk.

21.07. Arrival in the morning in the village. Tungur. Preparing loads for horses. If desired, an acclimatization hike to one of the surrounding peaks.

22.07. With. Tungur - r. Kucherla - Elan tract - Kucherlinskaya site. From the village Tungur backpackers travel by car to the town of “Elan” (10-12 km), then the road ends, the group puts on backpacks and then walks 2-3 hours to the “Kucherlinskaya” parking lot.

23-24.07. R. Kucherla - per. Karaturek - Akkem Lake. Follow the path that leads to a wide gravelly ridge. Along it we go out to the Karaturek pass, from which a stunning panorama of the entire Belukhinsky massif opens, headed by the king mountain Belukha Eastern. Visibility from the pass in good weather is tens of kilometers! Descent along the trail to Lake Akkem.

25.07. Preparing for the ascent. Radial acclimatization exit into one of the surrounding gorges.

26.07. lake Akkemsky - Akkemsky glacier - Tomsk sites. Trekking in full gear (personal and public equipment, food, personal belongings) to a place called the Tomsk parking lot. These are platforms on a rocky hill in the middle of a glacier. They go to them first among grassy hills, then along rocky screes and then along an open (not covered with snow) glacier.

27.07. Tomsk parking lots. Day's work. Training. Training in ice climbing skills necessary to reach the top.

28.07. Tomsk parking lots - lane. Delaunay - Berelsky glacier - saddle of the Berelsky saddle pass. Climbing an ice slope 220 m long and 35-50 degrees steep. Then move together along the snow fields of the Mensu glacier to the wide snow camps “Berel Saddle”.

29.07. Climbing Belukha. Morning departure (2-3 am). Ascent along the fields of the Mensu glacier, then, depending on the snow and ice situation, the following options are possible:

  • ascent through the Belukhinsky pass (ice-snow slope with a steepness of 40-50 degrees, length 500 m),
  • snow pillows of the central slope (snow-ice slope 600 m long and 30-40 degrees steep),
  • rock-ice ridge of Berelsky (600 m, steepness - 40-50 degrees).

30.07. Saddle of the Big Berelskoe saddle pass - lane. Delone - Tomsk sites - lake. Akkemskoe.

31.07. Spare day. Allotted to wait out bad weather during the approach to the mountain and ascent. If we do not use it, then on this day we will have a radial exit into the surrounding gorges to choose from - Yarlu Gorge, Karaoyuk Gorge (Lake of Spirits), Seven Lakes Gorge.

1.08. Akkem Lake - r. Akkem (Terrace parking lot). Movement along the path.

2.08. R. Akkem (Terraces parking lot) - r. Akkem (“Three Birches” site). Movement along the path.

3.08. R. Akkem (site “Three Birches”) - lane. Kuzuyak - s. Tungur. Movement along the trail and mountain road. If desired, backpacks can be sent by all-terrain vehicle (for a fee). Bathhouse.

4.08. Departure to Novosibirsk.

5.08. Arrival in Novosibirsk.

Included in the price:

  • moving "Novosibirsk - Tungur - Novosibirsk";
  • all permits for visiting the area;
  • rental of horses for public cargo and products;
  • food on the active part of the route;
  • accommodation in the village Tyungur;
  • washing in the bathhouse in the village. Tyungur (at the exit from the route);
  • public equipment (tents, boilers, burners, etc.);
  • public special equipment (ropes, ice screws, etc.);
  • satellite phone rental;
  • work of certified instructors-guides.

The price does not include:

  • accident insurance;
  • food on the way from Novosibirsk to Tyungur and back;
  • additional baths;
  • personal equipment (crampons, harness, etc.);
  • horses for the rider or for personal equipment.

Information on the active part of the route:

Required documents: Valid Russian passport, insurance.

Transport: Travel according to the program by bus and local transport.

Accommodation: On the route - in a tent. On arrival and departure - tents in a private courtyard. Tungur. If necessary, a hotel in the village. Tungur for an additional fee.

Nutrition: Three meals a day on the route: hot food - in the morning and evening, at lunch - a snack with hot tea.

Insurance and medicine: The guide will have a first aid kit with basic medications. If you have any specific diseases, be sure to take your medications with you! It is recommended to have a small personal pharmacy, which may contain: bandages (2 pcs.), wide adhesive plaster, analgesics (analgin, Nise, Citramon), cold soother tablets (Strepsils, etc.), vitamins (ascorbic acid).

Weather: The weather in Altai is little predictable. There will be sun. It may rain below, snow above. In the snow-ice zone, temperatures can drop to -10-15°C.

Hygiene and medicine:

  • toilet paper;
  • wet wipes;
  • sunscreen + sunscreen lip cream;
  • toothbrush, toothpaste (a small tube or one for two or three to save weight), chewing gum (it is not always possible to brush your teeth, especially in a snowy and icy zone, and chewing gum will come in handy in this case);
  • soap (small piece);
  • personal first aid kit (see section “Insurance and Medicine”).

Cloth:

  • a set of “traveling” clothes (will remain in the village of Tyungur);
  • thermal underwear set;
  • down jacket;
  • windproof jacket and pants (Gortex, nylon);
  • rain cape (no need to take it if you have a membrane or waterproof jacket and pants);
  • Polartek/fleece jacket and pants;
  • lightweight trekking trousers (for the trekking part);
  • trekking T-shirt or shirt (for the trekking part);
  • warm trekking socks;
  • thin trekking socks (2 sets);
  • Light gloves;
  • warm mittens;
  • polar/fleece hat;
  • cap or Panama hat;
  • T-shirt, long sleeve shirt (2 pcs.);
  • shorts;
  • flashlights (gaiters).

Shoes:

  • mountain boots;
  • trekking boots (you can use the same boots for both trekking and climbing);
  • trekking sandals for camp.

Special equipment:

  • telescopic poles;
  • Sunglasses;
  • safety system;
  • 2-3 carbines;
  • helmet;
  • cats;
  • zhumar;
  • trigger device.

General camping equipment:

  • backpack 90-120 l;
  • rain cover for backpack;
  • polyurethane foam mat;
  • sleeping bag at -15-20°C + sleeping bag insert (optional);
  • headlamp + extra batteries;
  • personal utensils (KLMN - mug, spoon, bowl, knife);
  • thermos;
  • seat (hoba, “fifth point”, butt).

To keep things sealed, it is advisable to either have a moisture-resistant liner in your backpack or pack things in bags, such as garbage bags.