September 10th, 2010

In the very north of Venice's Cannaregio, next to the ghetto, is the old square of Campo Dei Mori.

Once upon a time, on the site of Palazzo Mastelli there were Fondaco degli Arabi - Arab warehouses - this was a time of active trade between the Venetian Republic and the east. This is where the name of the square came from - Dei Mori - Square of the Moors.

There is another explanation - Palazzo Mastelli belonged to three brothers, successful merchants who came to Venice from Morea in 1112. Morea-Peloponnese (although sometimes they say Cyprus). In Venice they took the surname Mastelli, no one knew their real surname, and after the name of the place from which they came, the square became Piazza Morea - over time the name was shortened to Mori.

For several centuries, the palazzo belonged to the Mastelli family, but a strange event first happened in 1757, when the notary Pietro Prezato lived in the Palazzo. Suddenly, the ringing of five bells located in the palazzo was heard in all the rooms of the palazzo; this was repeated several evenings in a row at the same hour; the arrival of the local priest did not help. Even an exorcist was called, who also could not expel the spirit that had allegedly moved into the palazzo.

Since then, although not a single century has passed, music and voices suddenly begin to be heard from the palazzo, after a while everything calms down. People say that these are the spirits of ancient traders returning from another ghostly campaign and celebrating successful trade deals.

Another interesting legend is associated with the palazzo; on the facade overlooking the canal there is a bas-relief depicting a merchant with a camel.


They say the merchant and his camel disappear once a year - at midnight on Epiphany - only to return the next morning. (Theophany is connected with the appearance of Christ to the pagan Magi from the East; maybe that’s why the Eastern magician leaves for such important matters?)

On the square itself there are three stone figures of the Mastelli brothers - Rioba, Sandi and Afani, the fourth brother - Sior Antonio Rioba (the name is engraved on the luggage that the figure carries on his shoulders).

May the Lord turn my hand into stone!” Ryoba exclaimed. To the brothers, well-known merchants in Venice, who also had a bad reputation as deceivers and ignoramuses, but no one could provide evidence, everything remained at the level of rumors, whispers - a woman came who asked to sell her fabrics. She said that after the death of her husband, she got a shop in the very center of Venice and now she will have to manage it herself. Ryoba was delighted - he realized that the woman did not understand anything, and she could be handed cheap fabric of poor quality under the guise of expensive - then no one could blame them - you can always say that the woman herself wanted to buy this particular fabric. He winked at the brothers and saw that they themselves were already rubbing their hands, anticipating a successful deal.

This is a wonderful fabric, customers will line up at your store - he assured the woman, slipping her a cheap one - may the Lord turn my hand into stone if I am deceiving! -

Let it be so, the woman answered and handed Ryoba the coins; as soon as he took them in his hand, the coins turned into stone, and his hand began to turn to stone; the brothers froze with horror on their faces; but one by one, like Ryoba, they began to turn into stone.

Liars and criminals, you have turned into three stone statues - which you have always been, having nothing human - said Saint Magdalene, and it was her.

The workers who came the next day found three stone statues. Everyone immediately realized that these were the Mastelli brothers, who were petrified as punishment, but later they began to say that the brothers disappeared without a trace; asculptures always decorated the building.

For centuries now, the stone statue of Rioba has been crying in February, when the days become colder than the stones. They say that if you put your hand to the chest of the statue at this time, you can hear its heart beating.

And the last legend of the quarter... very close by is the house of the famous artist, Jacopo Robusti, nicknamed Tintoretto. This is house number 3399 on Fondamenta Dei Mori. The nickname stuck to the artist because his father was a dyer at a factory.

Tintoretto had 4 daughters, one of them. Ottavia inherited her father's house, the other two, Alturia and Perina, went to a monastery, and it was from them that this story became known. And it concerns the fourth, eldest daughter, Marietta.

Once little Marietta went to the Madonna del Orto church for the first communion in her life; children had to go to church for 10 days for morning services before receiving communion.

On the very first morning, on the way to church, Marietta met an old woman who asked where the girl was going. Marietta explained. Would you like to become like Madonna? asked the old woman.

Don't laugh at me, it's impossible!

“It’s quite possible,” the old woman answered, “I’ll teach you what to do.” Instead of reading a prayer, hold the prosphora in your mouth, then hide it in your clothes and when you return home, hide it in a secret place. When you do this 10 times and collect 10 prosphoras, I will come and explain to you what to do.

The girl did just that. For several days she came home and put the prosphora in a box, which she then buried again in the garden. But a few days later the dogs dug up the bed and the box was pulled to the surface. Marietta confessed everything to her father. Tintoretto, despite his deep religiosity. He knew well the stories that were told in Venice about witches - this was one of the ways to recruit young girls and turn them into witches.

He decided not to tell anyone about this story, but prepared a large linden stick and told his daughter to wait for the woman at the entrance on the 10th day and invite her to enter the house.

He ordered his daughter to quietly place the prosphora near the altar so that the priest would think that the servant had accidentally lost them.

As soon as the witch entered, she received a good blow with a linden stick. But she immediately turned into a cat and dodged - she rushed further into the house, jumping from furniture to walls and curtains. But very soon the witch realized that everything was lost and she would not be able to perform the ritual. Then she turned into a black cloud that slid towards the outer wall of the palazzo. A hole appeared in the wall through which the witch escaped. No one ever saw her again. Tintoretto, just in case, played it safe - so that the witch could not return to the house, he installed a small altar with the image of Hercules in place of the hole.

These are the stories walking around a small Venetian quarter...

And reality sometimes presents such stories that after a while they themselves will turn into legends...

On the night of April 30 to May 1 of this year, Rioba’s head was lost... The nights in this quarter are deserted, dark...

At about two o'clock in the morning, nearby - literally a hundred meters away - someone broke the glass of Osteria Rioba. The owner jumped out into the street to check what and how. And he claimed that, returning home, he saw a head on Rioba. “When I pass by, I always look at Rioba,” he told local journalists. But in the morning the head was no longer there!

The loss was discovered around eight in the morning by two French tourists who arrived early at the campo. And none of the locals discovered that the statue had lost its head!

The tourists asked one of the locals: “Where is the head?” Here a scandal broke out. Journalists and police came running. On the fourth day, again around eight in the morning, the head was found. 43-year-old l "operatore ecologisto di Veritas - double in our opinion :) Stefano Scarpa, who has been sweeping the area since he was 17, discovered the head in a plastic garbage bag 400 meters from the decapitated statue.

This news became the main news on local television in the morning, and the janitor became the real hero of the day. A high-ranking official from the mayor's office personally shook hands with the environmental operator while cameras flashed. The chief police chief praised the act of the city's patriot.
Now they promised to return the head to its place - whoever will be in these parts - share, I won’t be going to Venice anytime soon.

And the history of Campo will be incomplete without the history of the church. The church, previously dedicated to St. Christopher, received a new name - Madonna del Orto - or also Santa Maria Odorifera - after an ancient statue of the Blessed Virgin was found in a nearby vegetable garden, to which miraculous properties were attributed.

Built in 1300 by Fra Tiberio Da Parma, head of the Order of the Humiliated (Umiliate), and rebuilt in the 15th century when it was threatened with destruction, it is now considered one of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic.

In the church lie the ashes of Tintoretto, his son Domenico, and his daughter, the same Marietta whom Tintoretto saved from the witch.

In the 14th century, not far from the Madonna del Orto, there was a workshop of the sculptors Jacobello Pietro Paolodelle Mazenier, who, with the young Paolo, son of Jacobello, carried out work for the Palazzo Doge, Frari and the Basilica of San Marco. The legend is associated with the youngest of the sculptors.

If you look closely at the church, you will see that in 12 niches there are figures of the apostles.

According to tradition, the figure of Judas, who was present at the Last Supper, is always replaced in works of art by the figure of St. Matthew. But it was not always so.

In the 14th century there were many alternative religious movements and many sects that worshiped the devil. One of them, secret from his father and uncle, included young Paolo.

The devil appreciated the master's talent and invited him to become the creator of his kingdom on earth. The key place was chosen as the Church of St. Christopher (Madonna dell'Orto), where demons and evil spirits were supposed to gather.

To do this, the devil gave Paolo one of the 30 coins received by Judas for betraying Christ. The coin still bears drops of Judas' blood.

In secret from his father and uncle, Paolo had to put a coin inside one of the sculptures of the apostles and give his face the features of Judas. So he did.

Soon there would be a procession of the Passion of Christ outside the church on Good Friday. The role of one of the Saints in the procession was played by a girl who also went down in the history of Venice. Twelve-year-old Isabella Contarini spent 15 days in a coma due to typhoid fever. And not only did she fully recover, but she gained the ability to communicate with the other world. Seeing a person's inner aura, she predicted the future.

In the middle of the procession, Isabella suddenly shouted, “What, are you no longer afraid of holy places, Satan? You think. How can you resist the will of the Lord and the faith of His people?

The crowd froze in amazement, and Paolo, immediately guessing what was the matter, rushed to the girl, but froze, unable to move, since the young deacon, who had oriented himself to the situation, sprinkled him with holy water.

And then the sky darkened and a strong wind rose, Paolo fell unconscious, and the devilish spirit left him. When he woke up, the young man did not remember anything that had happened.

And the statue was left alone; it could no longer harm anyone.

But in Venice they say that once a year, on Good Friday, the figure of Judas disappears from the niche - it goes to the bloody field of Jerusalem, the lands once bought by Judas, where on this night all 30 pieces of silver of Judas must gather. The figure is accompanied on his night journey by the statues of Faith and Justice, which are usually found on the roof of the church. In the morning everything returns to its place. (Photos not mine)

It's true what they say - if you want to see Rome, move away from the Trevi Fountain, for example, towards the Piazza des Flowers.

And there is a reason to write about this attraction today. After all, on February 17, 1600, in this place with such a romantic name, a great man was burned alive - Giordano Bruno, a scientist whose knowledge was several centuries ahead of the primitive and dark time in which he lived.

Therefore, I propose a short excursion around Campo dei Fiori - part of historical Rome.

By the way, Bruno is not the only martyr who was allowed to have a barbecue in the flower square. In the Middle Ages, many victims of the Inquisition were tortured at this place.

If you are not very superstitious and the energy of execution does not bother you, then you can have a good time on this small spot.

Life there is in full swing around the clock: from morning to evening there is brisk trade, and when the sellers fold up their tents, the square is filled with tourists and other party-goers. Among other things, they like to organize famous Italian aperitifs here, and there are a lot of clubs around.

It’s worth warning right away that Piazza Campo de "Fiori is not the cheapest market in the city, but not the most expensive either, because locals go there too.

However, tourists are not housewives, right? If city guests visit the market, they do not do so to load their bags with groceries and go home.

In the markets they catch the color, get acquainted with the real life of the city and just stare around.

You can buy a portion of freshly cut fruit mix and “peck” at the juicy slices while walking between the rows, you can have breakfast on the veranda of a nearby restaurant and watch the bustle from afar, or you can buy flowers and lay them at the monument to the executed monk, which stands in the center of this square and seems looks at everyone.

Here are the things: on the site of a flower field, a square was erected to kill people, so that later they could sell flowers again... Everything returns to normal.

Pantheon, Campo dei Fiori, Ghetto, Piazza Navona

We continue to explore the historical center of Rome. The central object of this excursion is the Pantheon, one of the main attractions of the Eternal City. But we will not limit ourselves to the “one Pantheon”. Piazza Navona and its famous fountains await us - an amazing place where, it seems, the problems and worries of this world simply do not exist, but there is only lightness and tranquility, frivolous enjoyment of life in all its splendor. And besides this, there are numerous churches, palaces and other objects located in the area.

The center of Rome is one large monument of ancient times. But all the monuments of that era, to one degree or another, are ruins. The Pantheon is the only monument of this scale that has survived untouched to this day.

The first temple on the site where the Pantheon is located was built in 27 BC. e. at the expense of Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, the famous commander and friend of Emperor Octavian Augustus. Agrippa himself wanted to name the temple in honor of the emperor, but he, trying to emphasize a certain democracy of his rule, did not allow it. After this, the temple received the name Pantheon, a word of Greek origin and meaning “temple of all gods.” On this occasion, the historian Dion Cassius wrote: “This temple is called so, perhaps, due to the images of many gods on the pedestals of the statues of Mars and Venus. I think that the temple has the appearance of a tholos (Greek domed funeral temple - Author), reminiscent of the sky.”

In the 80s AD. e. The Pantheon was badly damaged during a fire, and then from a lightning strike. The temple was in a deplorable state. Under Domitian, it was partially restored, and in 118–128, during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, it was completely rebuilt. It is not known for certain who was the author of the Pantheon project. Many researchers are inclined to think that the Pantheon is the creation of the famous sculptor Apollodorus of Damascus, and some historians, citing ancient authors, the Emperor Hadrian himself, who, as is known, was very interested in architecture. True, the latter version still seems unlikely.

Unlike most of his “colleagues” emperors, who often wrote their names on other people’s buildings, Hadrian did not strive for this kind of dubious fame. On the facade of the new Pantheon, he ordered the old inscription to be restored: “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, built.”

Architecturally, the Pantheon is a round structure topped with a dome. The dome appears flat from the outside, but inside it occupies almost half the height of the temple; it rises 22 m above the rotunda, so the height of the building is almost equal to the internal diameter of the rotunda and reaches 42 m. The dome and rotunda are certainly masterpieces of ancient construction technology: massive construction made of monolithic concrete, and only the lower zone of the dome is reinforced with brick arches. Depending on the height of the dome, the composition of the concrete varied: in the lower zones the filler was solid travertine chips, in the upper zones - crumbs of tuff and light pumice. The spacious portico of the Pantheon (its width is 30 m, depth is 14 m) is supported by 16 Corinthian columns, placed in two rows, made of monolithic Egyptian granite and Greek marble.

The interior of the Pantheon also looked luxurious. Niches for statues were made in the walls covered with marble cladding. The floor of the Pantheon is paved with slabs of marble, porphyry and granite. There are no windows in the building, and at the same time it has such good natural ventilation that even after very heavy rain there is absolutely no feeling of dampness in it.

“The Pantheon has one great advantage: two moments are enough to be imbued with its beauty. You stop in front of the portico, take a few steps, see the temple - and it's all over. What I just said is enough for a foreigner: he doesn’t need any other explanation. He will be delighted in proportion to the degree of artistic feeling that heaven has endowed him with. It seems to me that I have never met a person who did not experience at least some excitement at the sight of the Pantheon.”

Stendhal

At the beginning of the 3rd century, under Septimius Severus and Caracalla, the Pantheon was partially restored, as stated by the second, smaller inscription. What awaited the Pantheon in the future? The fate of ancient buildings usually developed as follows: either they were destroyed by barbarians and other tribes, or later they were simply dismantled for building materials, or they were simply destroyed over time without proper care. The Pantheon is a happy exception. It survived the decline of the empire, and at the beginning of the Middle Ages, in 609, it was turned into the Christian church of Santa Maria ad Martyres. The Pantheon acquired special significance for all Italians in 1520, when the great Raphael was buried there. Subsequently, other famous people were buried in the Pantheon, in particular the kings of Italy Victor Emmanuel II and Umberto I.

Unlike many other historical sites in Rome, entry to the Pantheon is free. It is open from 8.30 to 19.30 Monday to Saturday and from 9.00 to 18.00 on Sunday. The Pantheon is closed on January 1 and May 1.

On the other side of Piazza della Rotonda, on which the entrance to the Pantheon is located, there is Church of Della Maddalena (Chiesa della Maddalena). It was built in the 15th century and seriously reconstructed in the 17th century. The peculiarity of this church is its rich interior in the Rococo style, which is not at all typical for Roman churches.

After visiting the Church of della Maddalena, let's go further along Via delle Rotonda, turn left into Via delle Coppelle and reach the small square Piazza di Sant'Agostino. Here it is Church of Sant'Agostino– one of the oldest Roman churches of the Renaissance. It was built at the end of the 15th century; in the 17th century the temple underwent major reconstruction. The main asset of the Church of Sant'Agostino is the unique frescoes of outstanding masters of painting. Right near the entrance there is a fresco by Jacobo Sansovino “Madonna del Porto” (it is especially revered by those who dream of having a child). Opposite the third column on the left is Raphael’s “Isaiah the Prophet” and another Sansovino painting “Madonna and Child and Saint Anne”. And finally, in the left nave you can see Caravaggio’s masterpiece - “Madonna di Loreto” (early 17th century).

Pantheon. Tomb of King Umberto I

Our further path lies on Via Corso del Rinascimento - a street on which (or near it) there are a number of interesting sights of the Italian capital. One of them - Church of San Luigi dei Francesi. This French church (as its name suggests) was built in the 1510s. The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi is another place in Rome where you can see the works of the brilliant Caravaggio.

His frescoes, located in the fifth chapel on the left, are dedicated to the Apostle Matthew - “The Calling of St. Matthew”, “Apostle Matthew and the Angel”, etc.

Next to the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi is Palazzo Madama– a palace that now houses the seat of the Italian Senate (the main façade of the building faces Via Corso del Rinascimento). This palace was built in the 16th century by Catherine de Medici. It later became the property of Margaret of Austria, the illegitimate daughter of Emperor Charles V (she was also known as Madame).

Church of Sant'Agostino

In the 17th century, the palace was reconstructed and expanded, after which the Grand Duke of Tuscan Ferdinand settled in it. And since 1871, the palace became the meeting place of the Italian Senate. You can explore the Palazzo Madama from the inside only as part of organized excursions, held on the first Saturday of every month from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is free, information by phone: 06 670 61, or on the website www.senato.it.

The next palace located in this area is Palazzo della Sapienza. Built in the 1570s and designed by the architect Giacomo della Porta, this building housed the University of Rome until 1935 and now houses the Italian State Archives. Let's walk further along Corso del Rinascimento, almost to the intersection with Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, and we will come to another palace - the creation of the architect Baldasar Perutia Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne. In the 1530s, the wide Corso Vittorio Emanuele II was replaced by a narrow and winding street called Via Papale, so the architect had to fit the palace into an irregularly shaped site. What he did brilliantly, for which he had to make an extraordinary decision - to round the façade, following the curve of the street.

Raphael. "Prophet Isaiah"

Our further route is somewhat different from the traditional excursion routes of the Eternal City. From Palazzo Massimo alle Colonna, we suggest you turn not left, towards Piazza Navona (which we will definitely come to), but right, towards Via di Torre Argentina and walk to Via Arneula. This is where the Ghetto begins, an ancient district where the city’s Jewish community has lived since the mid-16th century.

Palazzo Madama

Jews appeared in Italy a very long time ago, back in the 2nd century BC. e. It must be said that until the 13th century their situation was quite acceptable. During the Empire, Judaism was popular in Rome, and not only among Jews; it was accepted by many residents of the city, including representatives of noble families. The situation worsened somewhat in 1215, when the IV Lateran Council of the Catholic Church adopted anti-Jewish legislation on the initiative of Pope Innocent III. True, in the capital of the Papal State itself, this legislation was implemented much less strictly than in other places.

The word "ghetto" as a designation of a closed quarter where the Jewish population lives, appeared in Italy, namely in Venice. In 1516, the plot of land was surrounded by a wall and declared the only part of the city where Jews were allowed to live. It was located near a cannon workshop, ghetta in Italian, which is why it got its name.

This situation remained until the middle of the 16th century. In 1555, Pope Paul IV, who had a particular hatred of Jews, ascended the throne. In the same year, he issued a bull deporting Jews to a special quarter, prohibiting Jews from owning land, trading in grain, and prohibiting Christians from being treated by Jewish doctors. The site for the ghetto was chosen on the left bank - the place was constantly flooded, and the dampness made it unhealthy. On July 26, 1555, all the Jews of Rome were moved to the ghetto. Two months later, the ghetto was surrounded by a wall (and the Jews were forced to pay for its construction). Jews were forced to sell all real estate located outside the ghetto.

On October 13, 1870, shortly after the unification of Italy into a single state, religious restrictions were completely abolished by royal decree, and Roman Jews became equal Italian citizens. After Mussolini came to power, their situation did not actually worsen, but after German troops entered Rome in mid-1943, the situation changed dramatically.

In 1943, the commander of the SS troops in Rome, H. Kappler, demanded that the Jewish community provide 50 kilograms of gold. Otherwise, he threatened to shoot two hundred people, four for every kilogram not surrendered. Residents of the community were unable to collect such an amount of precious metal in a short period of time. However, help came to them, and from the direction from which they least expected it. Pope Pius XII (although he refused to publicly condemn the persecution of Jews, but at the same time ordered to provide them with refuge in monasteries) gave the chief rabbi of Rome 15 missing kilograms of gold. True, the transferred gold did not save the Jews of Rome from further persecution.

Now the Ghetto is a quiet, peaceful area. The main synagogue of Rome, the New Temple, located near the Lungotevere dei Cenci embankment, was built in 1904 on the site of a burnt building, which housed five synagogues under one roof. Under the synagogue building there is the Jewish Museum, the exhibition of which occupies more than 600 m2. You can visit it (the ticket also gives you the right to a tour of the synagogue) on Monday – Thursday from 9.00 to 19.00, Friday from 9.00 to 14.00 and on Sunday from 9.00 to 12.30.

In the Ghetto, strictly speaking, there are no outstanding sights or architectural monuments. A walk through this area is, rather, an acquaintance with the ordinary life of Rome, far from the tourist crowd. Here you are surrounded not so much by monuments of the past, but by some kind of spirit unique to this place. To make the experience complete, we advise you to visit one of the kosher restaurants or cafes, of which there are a great many in the area.

After walking around the Ghetto, we will return to the Corso di Rinascimento area and Piazza Navona. However, we will do it in a different way - one of the most picturesque squares in Rome awaits us Campo dei Fiori and several ancient palaces. Campo dei Fiori (you can reach it from Via Arneula by turning left onto Via Giubbonari) is a kind of quintessence of Roman flavor. From Monday to Saturday, from seven o'clock in the morning, the kingdom of trade begins here, because Campo dei Fiori is one of the most popular Roman markets. “Field of Flowers” ​​is how the name of this square is translated. Indeed, in the past there were luxurious flower fields here. True, then, when this area began to be built up and developed, Campo dei Fiori acquired the gloomy fame of a place of public executions. The fires of the Inquisition burned here for several centuries. Here, on Campo dei Fiori, Giordano Bruno was executed in 1600; a monument erected in the square reminds of this sad event.

Campo dei Fiori

Palazzo della Cancelleria is an impressive Renaissance building that occupies almost an entire block next to Campo dei Fiori. At one time, namely at the beginning of the 19th century, Napoleon’s court was located here, then the Italian parliament, and now the office of the Holy See. Walking from Palazzo Cancelleria along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, you can reach Piazza delle Chiesa Nuova, where the same name is located church (Chiesa Nuova). This church, despite its name (“Chiesa Nuova” translates as “New Church”), is by no means new; it was founded in the 12th century (then it was called Santa Maria in Vallicella). At the turn of the 16th–17th centuries, the church was completely rebuilt. The main “lure” of Chiesa Nuova are three works created by Rubens.

Palazzo Farnese

Not far from Campo dei Fiori is Piazza Farnese, where one of the most luxurious and most famous palaces in Rome is located, an architectural pearl of the Renaissance - Palazzo Farnese. Since the embassy of the French Republic has been located here for almost a hundred years, unfortunately, it will not be possible to examine the palace from the inside. But this does not mean that Palazzo Farnese does not deserve our attention.

In 1495, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, a representative of one of the most noble families in Italy, acquired the palace of the deceased Cardinal Ferriz. Since 1514 (according to some sources - since 1517), under the leadership of Antonio da Sangallo Jr., a radical reconstruction (in fact, new construction) of this palace began. After the death of Sangallo in 1546, Michelangelo began to supervise the construction (since 1534, Cardinal Farnese, having become Pope Paul III, moved to the Vatican, and his family began to live in the palace). Since 1547, the famous architect Vignola became involved in the work on the palace (he owns the façade of the palace facing Via Giulia); in 1564 he became the chief architect of the construction. The palace was completely completed in 1589 under the direction of Giacomo della Porta. In the 1730s, Palazzo Farnese became the property of the Neapolitan kings, and in 1911 it was sold to France for three million francs.

Not far from Palazzo Farnese there is another palace - Palazzo Spada(from Piazza Farnese you need to go along Via di Monserrato to Piazza Capo di Ferro, 13). It was built in 1540, and in 1632 it was purchased and rebuilt to his taste by Cardinal Bernardino Spada. Nowadays the palace houses the Spada Gallery, the exhibition of which mainly consists of works collected by Cardinal Spada in the 17th century. Works by Rubens, Titian, Durer, Reni and other masters are presented here. The Spada Gallery is open from 8.30 to 19.30 (closed on Monday), entrance fee is 5 €.

We return back to Campo dei Fiori, and then on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, to house number 166. This, strictly speaking, is not a house, but a palace and part-time museum with a long and beautiful name Palazzo della Farnesina ai Baullari. It was built in the 1520s, and in the 19th century became the property of Baron Barracco, who, like the same Cardinal Spada, was a great connoisseur of art. Nowadays, the palace displays his extensive collection of Egyptian, Greek and Roman sculpture, household items of the Etruscans and Assyrians, etc. You can visit the Barracco Museum from Monday to Friday from 9.00 to 19.00 and from 9.00 to 13.00 on Sunday. Entrance – 3€.

Another palace, which, again, is used as a museum, is located in Piazza di San Pantaleo 10. Palazzo Braschi was built at the end of the 18th century for the nephew of Pope Pius IV, Luigi Onesti-Braschi. Since 1952, the palace has housed the exhibition of the Museum of Rome (Museo di Roma). Among its most interesting exhibits: fragments of frescoes and mosaics from the old St. Peter's Basilica, paintings with views of Rome by famous artists, etc.

On one of the corners of Palazzo Braschi there is a statue of Pasquino. At first glance, there is nothing remarkable in this poorly preserved statue (historians date it to the 3rd century and believe that it was once part of a sculptural group depicting the events of Greek myths) - such statues, and in much better condition, are found in the ancient city a lot. But artistic features have nothing to do with it. In the 15th century, when the statue was found and installed, a certain tailor named Pasquino lived in this area, famous for his caustic and caustic character (he, according to some sources, was a tailor at the papal court and knew its customs from the inside). From some point on, satirical (and sometimes openly slanderous) pamphlets began to appear on the statue, which literally became known throughout Rome within a day. Either their author was the aforementioned Pasquino, or he was simply so famous for his character, but soon the statue began to be called by his name, and the poems that appeared on it with enviable regularity - lampoons.

Pasquino

One of the wings of Palazzo Braschi overlooks Piazza Navona, which completes our acquaintance with this area of ​​​​Rome. Piazza Navona is not just a square, it is a phenomenon, an extravaganza of frivolity and a carefree attitude to life, characteristic of Italians (and which is transmitted to a certain extent to everyone who comes to this amazing country).

Piazza Navona - a favorite place of Roman artists

Once upon a time, during the Empire, there was a circus on this site, built under Emperor Domitian at the end of the 1st century. At the beginning of the 3rd century, the circus was restored, and gladiators began performing there (Domitian’s circus “replaced” the Colosseum for some time, which was badly damaged during the fire of 217). The circus, which was more than 270 m long and about 55 m wide, had an oblong shape, which also “got to” Piazza Navona. This area began to be actively developed in the second half of the 15th century, when the market from the Capitol was moved here on the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. And in the 17th century, another pope, Innocent X, who belonged to the Pamphilj family, decided to make Piazza Navona his “family” square. To work on the creation of a unique architectural ensemble of the square, three outstanding architects were brought in - Lorenzo Bernini, Francesco Borromini and Carlo Rainaldi. Here, in Piazza Navona, is the residence of Innocent X - Palazzo Pamphili and here, in Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone(it was built on the site of the martyrdom of St. Agnes) is the tomb of the pope.

The main decoration of Piazza Navona are the fountains. Rome is the city of fountains. “Everywhere you find fountains,” William Faulkner wrote about Rome, “amazing and beautiful, large, decorated with marble statues of gods and animals, naked girls wrestling with horses, and swans. And tons of water fall in cascades, breaking into tiny drops.” Indeed, it seems that the sound of flowing water falling on stones accompanies you everywhere in Rome. There are fountains in Piazza Navona, three of them.

Let's start with the most famous one, standing in the center of the square - Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi). When Pope Innocent X, already mentioned by us, ascended the throne, he, among other things, planned to install on Piazza Navona a giant obelisk, brought to Rome during the time of Emperor Caracalla. In 1644, a competition was announced, to which all more or less famous architects of that time were admitted. All except Lorenzo Bernini. There were several reasons for such disfavor: the hatred of Innocent X for the Barberini family (whose representative was his predecessor Urban VIII), whose court architect was Bernini, and the actual failure of the construction of towers on the facade of St. Peter's Cathedral (and it was Bernini who led this construction), and the machinations of the architect's enemies. But Bernini did not give up. He prepared a project of amazing beauty and boldness of architectural solutions, which included placing an obelisk in the center of the fountain, and through his patron Duke Ludovisi (the wife of the pope’s niece) he managed to get his project considered. They say that Ludovisi simply placed the model in the dining room of Innocent X, and he was so amazed that he immediately canceled the competition and ordered Bernini to immediately begin building the fountain.

The figures of the Fountain of the Four Rivers allegorically depict the largest rivers of the continents - the Nile, Danube, Ganges and La Plata. The figures themselves and their location gave rise to many legends and guesses. The choice of La Plata is interpreted by the fact that the Amazon, the largest river of the American continent, was simply unknown at that time. The closed eyes of the figure representing the Nile are explained by the fact that the sources of this river had not yet been discovered. And the raised hand of the La Plata figure supposedly “supports” (or is blocked from it so as not to see) the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, built according to the design of Borromini, Bernini’s long-time competitor and enemy.

In the 17th–18th centuries, there was a tradition: on Sundays in the summer, Piazza Navona was filled with water and turned into a shallow lake. The Romans happily rode around it in carriages, enjoying the invigorating coolness.

According to the design of Lorenzo Bernini, another fountain in Piazza Navona was created - Fountain of the Moor (Fontana del Mogo)(if you enter the square from the Braschi Palace). True, it was designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1575, but was subsequently rebuilt by Bernini. From the book Rome [guide] author Grinkrug Olga

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Campo dei Fiori is one of the most beautiful and lively squares in Rome. It is located in the very center of the city and you can easily recognize it by the towering statue of a male figure in a black cape - the famous Giordano Bruno.

There are many myths and legends around the square: it is not surprising, since in the past numerous public executions took place here, including the place where the great scientist was burned, whose monument is erected on the square.

Today, the square has already lost the gloomy atmosphere of the Middle Ages and, on the contrary, has turned into a noisy place for morning markets and tourist walks.

History and architecture of Campo dei Fiori

During the Middle Ages, the land on which the square was located belonged to the Orsini family. There were practically no buildings or other structures here until the 15th century.

The square was densely covered with greenery and flowers, in honor of which it got its name - “blooming field” translated from Italian.

Starting from the 15th century, the area began to be actively built up, although rather haphazardly. The most impressive building built on this territory was the magnificent Palazzo della Cancelleria of the owner Bramante.

Photo: Pavel Tvrdy / Shutterstock.com

At that time, the square was used for public executions. On February 17, 1600, Giordano Bruno was publicly burned in the square. And in 1889, as a sign of memory of the great scientist, a monument was erected in the center of the square.

After executions began to take place on the outskirts of the city, and the Campo dei Fiori square ceased to be the place where terrible punishments were carried out, it was occupied by enterprising Italians, who set up numerous shopping arcades here.

The area was quickly built up with houses of market traders, which did not differ in a single architectural style. However, the square has its own unique atmosphere, crystallized here since the Middle Ages.

Legends of Campo dei Fiori

Since so many public executions took place in Campo dei Fiori during the Middle Ages, it has become overgrown with countless stories of ghosts and restless souls remaining here forever.

Particularly famous is the story of the ghost of Giordano Bruno, who has been living here since the days of the terrible Inquisition. And indeed, being on the square at night and immersing yourself in such a rich and unique history of the ancient city, looking at the lonely figure of the executed philosopher, you involuntarily begin to feel like a spectator of past events.

Photo: Circumnavigation / Shutterstock.com

Favorite place for tourists

Tourists are attracted to Campo dei Fiori square primarily by its historical significance and the monument to the famous scientist who suffered so cruelly from human ignorance.

Perhaps that is why the noisy shopping arcades, located right under the mournful monument every morning, look somewhat disharmonious here.

But the food market is held on the square only from 6.00 to 14.00, and then the entire square is immersed in a medieval atmosphere of mystery with the towering dark figure of the great scientist.

The oldest market in Rome is located in Campo dei Fiori. Many are misled by its name - Campo dei Fiori literally means “field of flowers”, but it is still not a flower market. Here you will find the best fish in the city, fresh vegetables, beautifully arranged fruits, spices, as well as dishes, tablecloths and toys.

History of origin

Fiori means demotion in Italian. About 1,400 years ago there were no vegetables or flower gardens on this square, and it received its name in honor of the friend of one of the famous politicians of antiquity - Flora. In 1456, Pope Caristus III took care of the improvement of this area and the area was tiled with square tiles. Then it was built up with majestic buildings, take, for example, Palazzo Orsini. After this, the square became a gathering place for influential and noble people and ambassadors. And Campo dei Fiori is the oldest Roman market. It has not changed its location for the last 140 years. Before that, a food market existed in Piazza Navona (since 1478), and it was moved to Campo dei Fiori in 1869. Since then they started trading here in the mornings.

Architecture

For many busy people, Campo dei Fiori in Rome will be a real find. Pre-washed lettuce, baby carrots or frozen spinach are not uncommon on local shelves. But you should choose such a product very carefully; there is a risk of buying not entirely fresh products. But, nevertheless, Italian suppliers of vegetables and fruits are happy to do the dirty work for an additional fee. And people are happy to buy washed greens, onions, and mixed vegetables. Exquisitely decorated stands with vegetables attract customers all year round. They usually have a lot of lettuce, the types of which vary depending on the season. They sell pumpkin already cut into large wedges, so you can buy as much as you need. The beans sit peeled, the green beans are already trimmed, bagged and ready to steam. Even wild chicory is neatly trimmed and free of dirty roots, so all you have to do is simply rinse it before cooking. Every morning you can see men and women peeling and chopping vegetables, showing off their skills. This is a standard painting of the Campo dei Fiori. But in addition to vegetable shops, there are numerous bars and restaurants.

Neighborhood

Not far from the market you will see the Papal Office - a beautiful Renaissance palace. It was built between 1489 and 1513 for Cardinal Rafael Riario. There were rumors that he found the funds overnight, becoming a winner in gambling. The process was led by an unknown architect, although the building is attributed to Bramante and Andrea Bregno. In 1517, Pope Leo the Tenth took possession of the palace. During the Roman Republic, parliament meetings were held in the building. By the way, in the palace there is a very beautiful eighteenth-century engraving by Giuseppe Vasi, which is definitely worth a look.

Note to tourists

The square with hotels, restaurants, and artisan shops became the commercial and cultural center of Rome. When going to the Campo dei Fiori market, you should remember that it is open only in the morning on all days except Sunday. Colorful products are literally everywhere, and it’s hard not to take a photo of this riot of colors. Here you can buy them, along with various souvenirs, much cheaper than in other places in Rome. But in such turmoil, you should not forget about the safety of personal belongings - cases of petty theft are not uncommon.