Elbrus is a large stratovolcano, composed of layers of lava and volcanic ash. It has a conical shape with two peaks located at approximately the same height. The western peak of Elbrus rises 5642 meters above sea level, the eastern peak is slightly lower, at 5621 meters. The peaks are separated by a flat saddle about 5,300 meters above sea level and are located three kilometers from each other.

Elbrus is considered an extinct volcano, but the last eruption occurred not so long ago from a geological point of view - at the beginning of our era, approximately in the first or second century.

There are several versions about the origin of the mountain. According to one of them, “Elbrus” means “high mountain” or “sparkling mountain” in Iranian. The Karachais and Balkars, who have been living in the Caucasus in the Elbrus area for a long time, call this volcano Mingi-tau, which translates as “eternal mountain”.

Geographical location of Elbrus

The Caucasus Mountains are divided into two parts: the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The Greater Caucasus Range runs on the border of Russia with other southern countries (Georgia, Azerbaijan) from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. The territory of the Greater Caucasus on the Russian side is divided into several republics and regions: Adygea, Karachay-Cherkessia, Kabardino-Balkaria, Dagestan, North Ossetia. Elbrus is located on the border of the Kabardino-Balkarian and Karachay-Cherkess Republics.

A few kilometers south of the foot of the volcano lies the Russian border with Georgia.

The mountain is located in the northern part of the ridge at a distance from the other peaks, so it is clearly visible from all sides of the Ciscaucasia - the double-headed cone is visible even a hundred kilometers away. Elbrus is between the central and western Caucasus. The western part of the mountain system runs from Elbrus to the Black Sea coast, the central part lies between this peak and Kazbek.

The volcano is surrounded by several gorges - Adylsu, Adyrsu, Shkheldy, glacial massifs and mountains. The area at the foot of Elbrus and in the area of ​​the upper reaches of the Baksan River, which is part of the Terek basin, is called Prielbrus. This is a resort region and a protected area with unique natural beauty, sources of healing mineral water and excellent opportunities for skiing and hiking holidays.

The boundaries between Europe and Asia are not precisely defined, and if the Caucasus Range is considered the border, then Elbrus is the highest point in Europe. Otherwise, that title goes to Mont Blanc in the Alps.

Elbrus is one of the highest mountains in the world, located in the northern part of the Greater Caucasus mountain system, in the territory of Kabardino-Balkaria. This is the highest peak in Russia, often referred to as the highest mountain peaks in Europe (the so-called “Seven Summits” list).

Location of Elbrus

Mount Elbrus is located between the republics of Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria. The mountain has a double peak, the western one has a height of 5642m, and the eastern one – 5621m.
. The mountain has two peaks, one of which is slightly higher. Scientists believe that there have been two significant eruptions in the history of the mountain, and the rocks of Elbrus, according to research, are approximately 2 or 3 million years old. Analysis of volcanic ash showed that the first eruption occurred about 45 thousand years ago, and the second about 40 thousand years ago.

Despite the fact that the mountain is very high, it is relatively easy to climb; it does not require exceptional qualifications, as, for example, for, and quite a lot of people try to do it. Up to 4 thousand meters, the slopes of the mountain are moderately gentle, but beyond that a serious climb begins. The steepness of the slopes can reach 35 degrees! Ascents are made to both the Eastern and Western peaks.

How is the ascent going?

Usually the ascent begins from the village of Azau, which is located in the upper part of the Beksan Valley. Here tourists spend about a couple of nights in order to acclimatize to the altitude and not suffer from “gornyashka” - altitude sickness associated with thin air and unusual atmospheric pressure.

On the first day, people usually go to the Pastukhov Rocks, and on the second day they schedule the climb itself. They leave the camp at about 2 am. First they go to the Pastukhov rocks, and then they reach the saddle of the mountain, where the routes are divided in the direction of the Eastern and Western peaks. A short rest in the saddle - and tourists move on to climb one of the peaks of Elbrus.

History of Elbrus

Stunningly beautiful mountain landscapes, as well as the mountain itself - from ancient times, all this served as the reason that people from all over the world came to the Elbrus region. The history of Elbrus climbers is proud of the names of the most worthy climbers, starting from the 19th century. Among them there are both domestic mountain lovers and foreign ones.

The peak of Elbrus's popularity came in the 60s, when mountaineering was especially popular in the USSR. In the Beksan Gorge, the road was even paved, and several mountaineering and tourist bases were built in the vicinity of the mountain.

Today this place is also popular as a ski resort. People make descents from the slopes of Elbrus and Cheget - this is a mountain located nearby, it also belongs to the Greater Caucasus system.

On the territory of the Elbrus region there is a national natural park created with the aim of preserving the nature of Kabardino-Balkaria. All conditions are created in the park so that people can relax in an organized and comfortable manner.

Elbrus is the highest mountain in the Russian Federation. Its height is 5642 meters. The mountain is located on the border of two regions - Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria.

History of Elbrus

The study of Elbrus began in the 19th century. The first scientific expedition visited Elbrus in 1829. Part of the expedition only reached a height of 4800 m. They carved the number 1829 and the St. George's Cross on the stones. Only the Kabardian Killar reached the top. He was proclaimed as the first climber of Elbrus. In honor of this event, cast iron boards with an inscription were cast, which are currently kept in the Pyatigorsk Museum.

The first mention of the mountain was found in the “Book of Victories,” which was written by the Persian historian and poet Sharaf ad-Din Yazdi. The book tells about Khan Tamerlane, who climbed to the top of the mountain during military campaigns.

In 1942, the Germans, after an intensified war at the foot of Elbrus, erected Nazi banners on the top of the mountain and renamed it “Hitler Peak”. But in the winter of 1943, Soviet troops drove the Nazis out of the slopes of the Greater Caucasus and placed Soviet flags on the top.

general information

Elbrus is an extinct volcano. The name comes from the Iranian word "Aitibares" - high mountain. Elbrus, which was formed about a million years ago, consists of lava, tuff and ash. The western and northern slopes are strewn with plumbs and rocks. The southern and eastern slopes are more even and gentle. The last time the volcano erupted was 2 thousand years ago. Nowadays there are eternal glaciers on the peaks of Elbrus and their area is approximately 140 square meters. km. Because of this, the mountain is even called Little Antarctica. In the spring, when the glaciers melt, water flows are formed that feed the Baksanu, Malke and Kuban rivers

Elbrus is a “sleeping” volcano, but life inside it is in full swing. It is from its bowels and depths that the famous springs of Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk, Narzan and Mineralnye Vody activate their vital activity. The masses seething inside the volcano saturate local springs with mineral salts and carbon dioxide and heat the water temperature to +60°C.

The slopes of Elbrus are a favorite place for athletes and tourists. The middle of the mountain can be reached by using a cable car. Next, at an altitude of 3500 m, is located

View from an airplane.

Elbrus is a double-peaked saddle-shaped volcano cone. The western peak has a height of 5642 m, the eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a lintel with a height of 5300 m and are approximately 3 km apart from each other. The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers is about 150 km 2. The last eruption dates back to 50 AD. e. ± 50 years. The adaptive capabilities of the body end precisely at these heights. The highest mountain settlement in the world (large) is located at an altitude of ~5100m. is the city of LaRinconada in Peru. Above the 5200-5300 m mark, the earth's atmosphere is so rarefied that the amount of oxygen in the air is half the norm - a person cannot stay there for a long time. Digestive, respiratory, etc. systems. are not able to perform their functions at 100, therefore long-term stay in such conditions is associated with certain risks to life and health, which is possible only thanks to the internal reserves of the body and only with appropriate preparation.

View of the southern slope of the mountain. PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE OPEN RESOURCE “YANDEX.PICTURES”

The above information is for general informational purposes only; more detailed information can be read on any Internet resource.

Preface

Viam supervadet vadens
(May the one who walks master the road)

I don’t encourage people who read this story to immediately grab a backpack, crampons and an ice ax and rush headlong onto the nearest train or plane to the cities of the Caucasus. Yes, we went without a guide. But you can’t imagine how much organizational work was done to make everything work out the way it did. This story is not a guide to “How to go to Elbrus without a guide.” This is just a subjective description of our journey. Probably, a professional climber would have written the text in a completely different vein. Jokes with such heights can end badly! We were very lucky, but we shouldn’t rely only on fortune. At the time of the trip, both members of the expedition had the status of far from “dummies”. I already had good experience in organizing tourist events, almost eight years of hiking and about four years of mountain tourism under my belt, as well as two years of working as a guide in the southwestern Caucasus. Kostya had been involved in athletics for many years, as a result he had incredible endurance, he already had a sports rank in tourism and good skills in handling climbing equipment. If you do not regularly engage in these sports (mountain tourism, mountaineering) and do not have a high level of general physical fitness (general physical fitness), then you should not go to Elbrus alone. Find a team with relevant experience, master all the necessary skills and spend money on a guide. This could save your life. Get ready to climb! The biggest difficulty of Elbrus is its simplicity. “Thousands have risen there, and I will rise,” a beginner will think. As long-term statistics show, about 90 climbers achieve success. Such figures create a deceptive illusion of accessibility, but this is not an outdoor camping site - this is the highest point in Russia, the main peak of the Caucasus, the “roof” of Europe, a five-thousander. And yet, before you go there, ask yourself the question: do I need it, and if so, why? After all, every year on Elbrus, on average, about ten people die, which is approximately 0.1 of the total number of climbers. Someone will never return from the Mountain, don’t forget about it...

PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE OPEN RESOURCE “YANDEX. IMAGES"

The idea of ​​going to SUCH a mountain arose a long time ago, but somehow it didn’t come together. At first there was a lack of finances, then time and equipment. And year after year, traveling through the southwestern Caucasus, climbing three thousand meters, I never stopped dreaming of such an ascent. Elbrus loomed on the horizon, beckoning with its sparkling white dome.

in the photo: view of Elbrus from the top of South Pseashkho (3251m.)

It was a DREAM - Elbrus! This one word turned my whole mind upside down. And since there was a dream, then soon a GOAL appeared. About a year before the trip, I firmly decided to make the climb in 2014. "Elbrus-2014!" - this became the life slogan of all subsequent months before the trip. But it is impossible to go to such a mountain without an experienced team, without people who have been there before! Six months before the ascent, I had the opportunity to go to Elbrus as part of an experienced team of excellent comrades from my hometown of Sochi, who already had quite a lot of experience in climbing above 5000 m.

Months passed, preparations were underway. Physical, technical, inventory, information. And all these six months I pushed away the bad feeling that something might go wrong and I would be left without a place on the team. Theoretically, I accepted the possibility that the trip as part of this team would not be possible. And therefore, I tried to collect more information about the mountain in advance: I read a lot of articles on the topic of acclimatization, reports on the ascent, and tried to ask as much as possible all my friends who had been there at least once. And, of course, I didn’t forget to prepare myself: regular trips to the mountains for one or two days, jogging 10-12 km, horizontal bar and parallel bars. Summer has come. The peak season of mountain tourism has begun. Now, when Elbrus was again revealed to the eye through a veil of clouds, I knew that it would be soon... And then something happened that I was afraid of, but for which I was ready: a call from the leader of the team in which I was supposed to ride. They go to another mountain - Kazbek 5033 m, which is located on the border with Georgia.

PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE OPEN RESOURCE “YANDEX. IMAGES"

I had neither the time nor the desire to quickly make a passport. My goal remained unchanged - “Elbrus-2014!” Having thanked the manager for agreeing to take me on the team at all, I began organizing my own trip to Elbrus. At first I tried to “get on the tail” of another team, but they didn’t want to take me. The reasoning was harsh and exhaustive - lack of sufficient confidence in my preparedness for such a campaign. Oh, how I understand them now!... There was just over a month left, and there was so much to do! It’s good that I had a large “package of information” about the area. All that remained was to find a travel companion. The criteria, of course, are very strict: a great desire to go, good physical and psychological preparation, availability of all the necessary equipment, and much more. The search circle closed on only one person - Konstantin Pavlenko.

At that time, I had known Kostya for only six months, but in such a short time he managed to establish himself only on the positive side. Calm, balanced, honest, responsive, superbly prepared both physically and psychologically, possesses all the necessary skills for such an ascent and, most importantly, he was fully aware of what he was agreeing to. In general, wherever you look, there are only positive qualities, with the exception, perhaps, of some absent-mindedness characteristic of many romantics, although here I can compete with him. A month before departure... We bought train tickets in advance to determine the exact departure date - July 31, flight Adler - Vladikavkaz. Now all that’s left to do is get ready and hit the road! Two weeks before the trip, we underwent preliminary acclimatization on the Pseashkho massif and, after spending the night at an altitude of 2600 m, climbed Mount Pseashkho South, 3251 m high. The last week before the trip is probably the most stressful. What is revealed is simply a sea of ​​previously unresolved organizational issues. And there is very little time left. So, July 31st. The backpacks are packed. Boarding the train. Now no one and nothing can stop us! After all, we didn’t tell ANYONE that we were going just the two of us. According to legend, we are members of a team of “experienced and qualified instructors from Krasnodar.” Well, what can I say! The biggest adventure of our lives has begun!

Part one

“Only mountains can be better than mountains,
Which I haven’t been to before"
Vladimir Vysotsky

The first day. Check-in On the morning of August 1, our small detachment arrived at the station in the city of Mineralnye Vody. Alone, in an unfamiliar city... But this does not scare us, we know what all this is for. An attempt to find direct transport to the village of Terskol (the closest village to Mount Elbrus) was unsuccessful. Taxi drivers charged us astronomical amounts for the transfer, so we decided to go by public transport, which, of course, is not so convenient, but several times cheaper. And now, we are in the Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, passing the Baksan Circle traffic intersection. Our path lies through the administrative center of the region - the village of Tyrnyauz. After some time we enter the territory of the local National Park. We decided to base ourselves on the territory of the Bivuak tent camp. The place is simply beautiful - a fir grove. Not a speck, not a bump - what else does a tourist need? The weather is magnificent. During the day it will not be hotter than +20, and with sunset the thermometer will drop only 6 - 8 degrees. Although in the mountains the weather will always find something to surprise a tourist: the hot sun is scorching, and in an hour the temperature will “collapse” and it will rain and snow, which in an hour or two may be replaced by the appearance of a bright luminary. So you need to be on your guard. As soon as we leave the forest zone, the Azau peak and Mount Cheget 3770 m open to our eyes, to which we will go tomorrow. Having received an incredible boost of energy at the waterfall, we decide to go further to the observatory located nearby, at an altitude of 3100 m. Unfortunately, we were not allowed into the observatory itself, but the local guards advised us not to stop there and go to the “Ice Base”, where in Soviet times training took place before climbing Elbrus. Well? No sooner said than done! Let's go to the Ice Base, at 3700! The road is no longer so good, you can’t get through here by car. Hundred by hundred we gain altitude. Now you can admire the legendary Semyorka glacier, which lies on Mount Donguz-Orun. And after the next “take-off”, it was revealed to us... yes, it was HE – Elbrus! I, of course, understood that Elbrus is a mountain of considerable size, but not so “considerable”! It's just huge! This is a great spectacle! Relative to our location, the mountain rises another 2 km up. We are enjoying the views and the panorama that opens up to us, when suddenly we notice some “dots” on the Terskol glacier. This is a group of mountain climbers returning from an acclimatization trip, maneuvering between huge cracks in the glacier. The surface of the glacier is like bottle glass: the blue ice is crystal clear, transparent several meters deep, but it is hard as stone. Crossing a glacier is not an easy task. You must have a number of special skills: be able to move in a team, cut on the ice, and much more. While we are waiting for the climbers, we are looking at what is happening on the southern slope of Elbrus - someone is moving up along the Pastukhov rocks, someone is moving down from the “oblique shelf”. The process is fascinating, and we involuntarily begin to speculate about what exactly is happening there. Also from this point you can study the location of various objects relative to each other: lift stations, “Bochki”, “Shelter 11”, rock ridges of “Shelter”, Pastukhov rocks, “oblique shelf”. On the way back we come across a small island of “green life” in the endless stone sea. What a contrast! Let's go down. Day three. Going to an altitude of 3700 m on the first day was not the best idea, but what was done cannot be changed. We received a lot of information from a group of climbers we met at the Ice Base. After yesterday's forced race, we decided to rest a little, not get up “at first light” and sleep two to three hours more than usual. But by 9 am the rising sun turns our tent into a “crematorium”, so we had to wake up. Today our program is simpler - a radial exit to Mount Cheget to an altitude of 3400 m. Having “dropped” about a hundred meters through the village, we get to the “Glade Cheget”, from where the chairlift begins. But we don’t need it, since acclimatization requires physical labor, and a ride on the cable car doesn’t quite reach this concept, so we go on foot. The ascent to the slope of Mount Cheget begins. At the exit from the forest zone there is a turn to Lake Donguz-Orun-Kel, but it is located in a specially protected five-kilometer zone adjacent to the state border with Georgia. The border runs along the top ridge of the Donguz-Orun and Nakra-Tau mountains. A pass is needed only if you want to get to Lake Donguz-Orun-Kol, the Shhelda glacier or the Azau gorge. All this is not necessary for climbing and is a pleasant “bonus” for acclimatization trips. Without special permission, going there is fraught with very unpleasant consequences. With a sigh of disappointment, we continue to climb. In the second hour from noon we reach the desired altitude. At this point everything is covered in clouds. No wonder. The weather in the mountains often worsens in the afternoon. But we were able to see Cheget itself, to which there were still 300 vertical meters of pure mountaineering left. The clouds are thickening too quickly, it could rain at any moment, so we go down “bourgeois style” - on one of the oldest cable cars in Russia. This will be the last night in the village of Terskol. Primary acclimatization has been successfully completed, so tomorrow we will move directly to the slopes of Elbrus. Day four. We leave the wonderful fir grove that sheltered us and go to the kingdom of eternal snow and ice. But before that there was mandatory registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Of course, we do not plan to use the services of rescuers, but anything is possible - safety comes first. We are leaving Terskol. The cable car, which leads to the slope of Elbrus itself, begins from the Azau Glade, which had to be reached by taxi due to the complete lack of local transport. The cashier insisted that we buy round-trip tickets, assuring us that even after a few days the descent tickets would be valid. At the cash register we were given beautiful plastic cards. Well, now the most interesting thing awaits us - we begin to reap the benefits of not having a guide. Of course, the main details of the route were very carefully thought out in advance, but it was impossible to pay attention to every detail. Due to our insufficient awareness of the specific location and exact altitudes of the camps, a rash decision was made to spend the night at an altitude of 3450 m, near the Mir cable car station. It rains all day, with snow at night. There are noisy, dissatisfied vacationers constantly walking around the tent, some incredibly smelly equipment is driving around, and in general... I don’t want to waste time on further description of this day, since nothing interesting happened anymore. Day five. We wake up to the noise made by yet another incomprehensible large-sized equipment passing by, and begin to prepare for the upcoming road. Breaking up camp in the rain is not a pleasant pleasure, but there’s nothing you can do – you have to. We return to the station: in front of us is the “Mir - Gara-Bashi” cable car. We pay separately for the third stage, already at the top. The cable car seats are single seats, so you have to put your backpack with your things on the next seat. On each support, the chair shakes and bounces terribly - just look, the backpack will fall out and fly into hell. It’s scary to look at - after all, EVERYTHING is in the backpack! By this point, it became clear that before the trip it was necessary to put on a hat and a down jacket, since moving to warm up, especially with a second backpack on my lap, was uncomfortable and dangerous. In addition, the cable car stops periodically so that workers can accept the load that travels in the same chairs. This is how we get to a height of 3700 m. And in the direction of the “Shelter” there are already support piles for the new line of the cable car, which will reach a height of more than four thousand meters! What's next? Will they reach the Pastukhovs, and will they sell pies on the saddle? It has already become noticeably cooler here - you can feel the proximity of the border of the snow zone. The guard at the upper station of the cable car, seeing two boys getting wet in the rain, immediately invites us to his guardhouse. How friendly people are here! But no matter how sad this may be, after drinking hot tea near a warm stove, we have to leave the hospitable host and go in search of a place to set up camp. Our path lies past the Barrels shelter. Having established the camp, we collect radial backpacks “for transport”, completing them with the heaviest, that is, food and gas. We got to this place by cable car, thanks to which, at an altitude of 3500 - 3700, we eat fresh vegetables and fruits, cheese and meat, and other products that we absolutely don’t want to carry further on our hump. We have to walk the rest of the way. It is not possible to carry about 70 kg of cargo at a time for two people, so we do a “drop”: we carry 10 - 12 kg of cargo each to the site of the second camp in order to carry away everything else the second time. Or you can descend to the level of “mattresses on a snowcat,” which is completely unsporting. Previously, the legendary Shelter 11 was located at an altitude of 4050 m. Some reports talk about the 4200 m mark - don’t believe it, it’s not true! Where every meter counts, such a difference is critical. Built back in the Soviet years, on August 16, 1998, the practically ownerless “Shelter” burned down due to violations of fire safety rules. Now the “Shelter” is the name given to the former boiler house building, which can comfortably accommodate several dozen climbers. The owner of this establishment turned out to be as good-natured as the guard at the Gara-Bashi station. Probably all the people here are like that. He gave us hot tea, and while drinking tea, he told us a lot of interesting things about Elbrus. In the hospitable company, time flew quickly; it was already getting dark outside. It's time to go down to camp at 3700. Upon arrival, we hide all electronic devices inside the sleeping bag - they can get damaged in the cold. Day six. Having left ourselves only enough food and gas for a day, we have no other option but to go with all our luggage to the upper camp. We walked from “Barrels” to “Shelter” with large backpacks. It’s good that the weather is cloudy; walking under the scorching rays of the sun would be much more difficult. We mentally thank the weather. With faces expressing the wisdom “He who knows life is in no hurry,” we slowly crawl up to our next stop. Meanwhile, the fog is thickening, so a decision is made - first set up camp, and only then pick up your “drop-off”. The place was simply magnificent! Not far from the Shelter, at an altitude of 4150, there are large and flat areas where you can place at least a company of soldiers. We were very lucky - a few hours earlier the group had left this place, freeing up a perfectly prepared place for a tent. What a wonderful wall! Thanks to it, we don’t feel the wind at all. So far everything is going very well, although in the details there is again a lack of a guide. At the transition “Bochki” - “Shelter” we did not put on either crampons or climbing shoe covers (special insulated covers for shoes), since this section does not present any technical difficulty. But the snow plowed by snowcats melts during the day, since even at this altitude in clear weather above-zero temperatures prevail. Because of this, the entire path turns into a squelching and slurping mess, which not a single membrane on the shoes can cope with. As a result, we get thoroughly wet feet at an altitude of more than 4000 m. There is nowhere and nothing to dry our shoes with... Regardless of the weather, it is impossible to violate the canons of acclimatization. The rule “climb high and sleep low” must be followed. Therefore, we warm ourselves and go upstairs in conditions of almost zero visibility. Snow groomers (snow rolling equipment) regularly travel up to a height of 5080 m, leaving behind trenches about 20 meters wide. Along the sides of these trenches there are red flags every 10-12 meters indicating the direction of movement. It is simply impossible to stray from such a path. Having reached the lower limit of the Pastukhov rocks (4550 m), we understand that this is worth stopping at. At least today. Visibility is no more than 10 m, there is a strong wind, and the time is already approaching sunset. It's time to go back down. Day seven. The first night at an altitude of over 4000 m above sea level went well. We slept very soundly; altitude sickness had not yet made itself felt. Climbers from the neighboring tents told us how to dry our shoes - we need to sleep with them in our arms. Yes, it’s unpleasant, but it’s very effective. Tested by personal experience. It was quite warm at night, the thermometer dropped only to -6 degrees Celsius. The next morning Elbrus reveals itself to us in all its grandeur! It seems that you can run to the top in a few hours. What a deceptive illusion, because it’s one and a half kilometers away, in altitude, of course... Up to the 4600 mark, the altitude is practically not felt, at 4700 severe shortness of breath appears, and it becomes very difficult to walk. At an altitude of 4900 we turn into robots. We walk “automatically”. In such conditions, if you suddenly slow down, a feeling of suffocation is guaranteed for half a minute. Attempts to restore breathing by taking a deep breath are futile. There is still not enough air. Remembering the words of A.V. Suvorov, “It’s hard to learn, easy to fight,” we continue to move. We decide today, at all costs, to cross the 5000 m mark. No sooner said than done. The last “take-off” completely exhausts our strength - the speed does not exceed 1 km/h. Every step is given with incredible difficulty! I have to “pull myself out” with my hands, leaning on poles, and for the first time in my life Kostya regrets that he didn’t take trekking poles. How useful they would be to him now! Almost five hours later from the moment we left the camp, we reach the end of the “snow groomer boulevard” - at an altitude of 5080 m! This is the beginning of the “oblique shelf” - the traverse of the slope of the Eastern peak towards the saddle. The snowcat does not go further than this place. We are at an altitude of more than five kilometers! What a view! Below us is a cloudy ocean, from which the highest peaks of the Main Caucasian Range “stick out” with snowy peaks. It was worth the effort spent getting up. By studying the rocks located directly above us, we compare recommendations for descending from the saddle with the actual location of objects when it is impossible to find the “oblique shelf” due to poor visibility. To the left and right of us there are massive glaciers and multi-meter cracks gape. And again we see the Semyorka glacier. Now we are one and a half kilometers higher than him! As we go down, the weather noticeably improves and rewards us with beautiful sunset panoramas. Having descended to the camp, I understand that the first signs of altitude sickness or “miner sickness” are catching up with me. Kostya feels great, but my condition is completely different - my head is cracking like a transformer box, in addition there is a strong nosebleed (after all, the body cannot withstand such pressure changes), which can only be stopped with vasoconstrictors. The consequences of exposure to altitude affect each person exclusively individually. Some have a headache, some have a stomach ache, some have no appetite, and some don’t care at all, although, of course, there is a certain, most common “package of consequences.” And I’m very tired today (after all, we climbed to an altitude of more than five thousand!), and it’s simply impossible to fall asleep - the transformer in my head still doesn’t want to shut up, and on top of that I’ve added increased nervousness. I don’t know whether this was a consequence of the headache or a separate symptom, but I snapped at Kostya, cursing him for no reason whatsoever. When I realized that the “miner” was speaking in me, I had to make a lot of apologies to my comrade. Attempts to turn off this infernal chatter with aspirin and citramone were unsuccessful. Another hour of agony. It was possible to plunge into the world of dreams only after taking a double dose of sleeping pills.

Elbrus is the largest mountain in Russia and Europe! One of the “magnificent seven” of the highest peaks of our planet, from which you can even see the Black Sea and the Turkish coast..

Elbrus is located just north of the Main Caucasus Range on the border of the republics Karachay-Cherkessia And Kabardino-Balkaria.

Elbrus(Mount Elbrus) is a two-headed volcano in the north of the Caucasus mountain system.
The height of the Western peak is 5642 m.
The height of the Eastern peak is 5621 m.
The height of the saddle is 5300 m.

The white two-headed volcanic cone of Elbrus is noticeably different from the entire mountain landscape of the Caucasus and can be seen hundreds of kilometers away in good weather. Nearest town - village Terskol (Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria) in the Baksan Gorge at the foot of the mountain itself.

Elbrus coordinates on maps:
43°21’11″ N 42°26’13″ E

Peaks of Elbrus.

Due to its status as the highest point in Europe, climbing to the top of Elbrus is popular among climbers all over the world and is considered one of the “steps” to conquering the “seven peaks”.

Despite the ease of the routes, Mount Elbrus annually takes dozens of human lives. To a greater extent, the lethality of the mountain is determined by the difficult climate with changeable weather, as well as the poor training of climbers without experience. Visually, the peaks of Elbrus seem easily accessible, which instantly excites the hearts and minds of many people to “conquer the mountain” and even those who have never climbed before... In fact, this simplicity is deceptive and in reality, a person without preparation finds himself in difficult conditions in which he cannot always manages to survive...

Climbing Elbrus.

The peoples of the Caucasus and the Middle East composed a large number of songs and legends about Elbrus.

One of the legends tells that the mountain used to have one hump. At its top lived the magical bird Simurg, who bestowed happiness and prosperity on the mountain people who inhabited the valleys of the mountain gorges. This idyll lasted for many centuries, until the desire to seize the bird’s heavenly throne led to its possession by two greedy people. Their fierce struggle was stopped by higher powers: blinding lightning cut the sky, terrible thunder erupted and Elbrus split in two, spewing out streams of fire that incinerated everything in its path. After such a terrible fight, the magical bird Simurgh hid deep underground, upset by the ingratitude and greed of people.

According to research by scientists, Elbrus has not been visible for quite a long time, but despite this, the current level of activity does not give experts a reason to classify it as an extinct volcano; now it has the status of “dormant”. The volcano is indeed quite active in external and internal activities. In its depths there are still hot masses that heat the local “Hot Narzans” - springs saturated with mineral salts and carbon dioxide, the temperature of which reaches +52°C and +60ºC. In the depths of the volcano, life begins for many famous springs in the healing resorts of Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk and the entire Caucasian Mineral Waters region.

Flowers on the mountain peaks of the Caucasus mountains.

The climate on Elbrus is characterized by severity, making it similar to the Arctic regions. The average temperature in the warmest month of the year does not rise above -1.4°C. There is quite a lot of precipitation here, but it is mainly represented only in the form of snow.

The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus are located around the two-headed giant: Nakra-Tau, Ushba, Donguz-Orun .

Panorama.

• Made his first ascent Kilar Khashirov - conductor of the Russian scientific expedition, Kabardian by nationality on July 22, 1829 to the Eastern peak of Elbrus.
• The western peak of Elbrus was conquered by a team of climbers led by Florence Grove in 1874.
• The first to reach both peaks was a Balkar hunter and shepherd Ahiya Sottaev . Over the period of his long life, he conquered Elbrus nine times: he made his first ascent at the age of over forty, and the last in 1909, when he was 121 years old.

The study of Elbrus by Russian scientists began actively in the 19th century. Academician V.K. Vishnevsky in 1913 he was the first to determine the height and location of the volcano. In addition to its status as a unique natural attraction, the famous Caucasian peak is also an important scientific base. Even before the war, the first experiments with cosmic rays in the Soviet Union were carried out here, and today it houses the highest geophysical laboratory.

The territory of the Elbrus region is a major center of tourism and skiing. The bulk of the guests are fans of winter sports, including extreme sports, which are very popular in these mountains. In addition to the usual snowboards, sleds and freeride, a new entertainment was organized for thrill seekers, which was an ascent to the top of Elbrus by helicopter and subsequent descent from the mountain on skis. For more conservative skiers, there are cable cars with an average capacity of 2,400 people per hour.

On the slopes of Elbrus.

How to get to Elbrus?

• By plane fly to the nearest airport in Mineralnye Vody. There are many regular flights to Mineralnye Vody from Moscow from airlines: Aeroflot, Sky Express, Kavminvodyavia, S7 Airlines, UTair, Don Avia.

• By train you can get to Pyatigorsk or Nalchik - these are the closest settlements from which it will be faster to get there by minibus or taxi. Already from these places there are beautiful views of the Caucasus Mountains, which you can admire all the way.

It will be most convenient to get from the airport or train station by taxi, it will be cheaper to use the services private cab drivers. The best and cheapest option is to find the phone numbers of private bombers from the village of Terskol on the Internet and arrange a meeting upon arrival and the price in advance. The journey to Elbrus will take about four hours. You need to get to the city of Baksan, then turn into the Baksan Gorge and to the end along the Baksan River, where the road will lead to the very foot of Elbrus.

You can also get there regular buses And minibuses. Only this method is less convenient and will take longer, since there are no direct flights to Terskol. First you will need to get to the city of Baksan and there transfer to a minibus to the village of Terskol. The road in the Baksan Gorge passes through the settlements: Tyrnauz, Upper Baksan, the village of Elbrus and Tegenekli.

• Based on materials from the sites: pro-planet.ru, udivitelno.com

• March 24, 2015

They say that Prometheus was chained to one of the rocks of this particular mountain because he gave fire to people. It was here, according to Homer, that Jason went for the Golden Fleece. There are also legends that it was Elbrus that was the first piece of Earth that Noah encountered after the Flood, and his ship literally hit the peak and split it.

The Elbrus stratovolcano is located some distance from the Greater Caucasus Range (20 km to the north) and is the highest point in Russia. Since there is no clearly defined border between Asia and Europe, many believe that it is the highest mountain peak on the European continent, with an altitude of 5642 meters.

Elbrus was formed somewhat differently than the rest of the Caucasus Mountains, of which it is part: they appeared earlier, about 5 million years ago, and have a folded character. And the volcano was formed later, about 1 million years ago, as a result of complex and long-term geological processes: first the western peak appeared, and then, on the eastern side of the side crater, a second cone began to form. Nowadays, the volcano is not active, but it cannot be called extinct either: manifestations of volcanic activity are still observed here.

What Elbrus looks like

The nature here is diverse: mountain meadows, rare plants and animals, coniferous forests, turbulent rivers leave no one indifferent, and some time ago the Elbrus National Park was created in the area of ​​the volcano, and therefore there is no hunting, no cutting down of forests, no construction here it is forbidden.

At the foot of Elbrus there is a huge number of extremely beautiful gorges, and on the northern side there is the famous Dzhyly-Su tract with mineral thermal springs and beautiful waterfalls from 20 to 40 meters high, among which the Sultan waterfall located in the upper reaches of the Malki River stands out.

On the slope of the mountain, at an altitude of about three hundred meters, there is a huge ice lake, Jikaugenköz. In its middle part rises the Kalitsky Peak, reminiscent of a medieval castle, whose height exceeds 3.5 km, where there is a site with religious sanctuaries, which were created from large stones.

The volcano itself looks like this:

• Elbrus has two peaks, each of which represents two independent volcanoes, connected by a saddle, the height of which is 5.3 km. The distance between the peaks is about three kilometers;
• The eastern, younger cone is slightly lower than the western one, and its height is 5621 m. It has a clearly defined crater with a diameter of 200 meters and a depth of about 80 m;
• The height of the western peak of the almost extinct volcano is 5642 meters, the diameter of the crater is 600 meters, the depth is 300 m, and the upper part of the volcano is partially destroyed;
• The slopes of the mountain are mostly gentle, but closer to the top, starting at 4 thousand km, the angle of inclination increases to 35 degrees;
• On the northern and western side of Elbrus there is a huge number of sheer cliffs about 700 meters high;
• Starting from a height of 3.5 km, the volcano is covered with rocks and glaciers; in total, there are about 70 glaciers on Elbrus, the area of ​​which exceeds 130 km². The water flowing from the glaciers of Elbrus creates three main streams that feed the main rivers of this region - Baksan, Kuban and Malka;
• The surface of the volcano, free of glaciers, is covered with loose rocks;
• Snow cover remains on the top of Elbrus throughout the whole year.

On the northern slope of the mountain, at an altitude of about 3 km, there is a Birjal lava tract with a huge number of remains of melted sand, which, under the influence of precipitation, weathering, and soil erosion, collapsed and created numerous piles of bizarre shapes, forming grottoes and caves. They hang over each other, forming bridges, arches, consoles and, diverging in different directions, taking on various bizarre shapes.

Volcano activity

It is believed that over the entire period of its existence, the active volcano has exhibited volcanic activity about four times, and the age of the oldest volcanic rocks of this mountain is about three million years.

The volcano showed its greatest volcanic activity about 225 thousand years ago, then its activity gradually subsided, and the last time it erupted about two thousand years ago (according to scientists, it was around 50 AD). Despite the fact that this eruption was not recorded anywhere, lava flows up to 24 km and 260 km long dating back to this period were discovered on the mountain. sq. volcanic debris, indicating that the emissions were quite strong.

Although the volcano has not been reminiscent of itself for an extremely long time, volcanologists consider it not extinct, but dormant (active), since it demonstrates active external and internal activity - primarily this is manifested in the release of sulfuric acid and chloride gases on the eastern slopes, as well as in the presence the world-famous mineral thermal springs “Hot Narzan”, the temperature of which reaches +52° C and +60º C (apparently, the magma chamber of the volcano is located at a depth of 6-7 km from the earth’s surface).

Many scientists agree that the volcano is unlikely to awaken in the next two or three centuries.

Some scientists believe that Elbrus may well become active already in this century (though not earlier than in fifty years), arguing their conclusions not only by the manifestation of fumarolic activity by the volcano, but also because of the colony of green mosses discovered on the western peak of the mountain. The ground temperature in this place was +21ºС, while ambient temperature indicators showed sub-zero temperatures (-20ºС).

Elbrus weather

Not everyone who starts climbing Elbrus will be able to conquer it, especially if he decides to do it in the off-season - in spring or autumn. Closer to the top, even well-prepared climbers can be stopped not only by the severe cold, but also by the terrifying strength of the wind, which knocks them down, gusts reaching 100 km/h.

The most stubborn can, despite the bad weather, reach a height of 4 thousand km, but such weather will stop anyone - snow, storm and temperature of minus thirty degrees; in these conditions, going up is extremely dangerous for life.

Since warm and humid Mediterranean and Black Sea cyclones meet cold Antarctic ones near Elbrus, the climate of Elbrus is extremely changeable: summer heat quickly gives way to bitter cold, and clouds in a few minutes can cover an entire mountain, hiding absolutely all landmarks - and the traveler will have to rely only on his instincts .

Moist air currents coming from the Black Sea cause numerous precipitation on Elbrus, mainly in the form of snow, which at high altitudes can fall at both sub-zero and positive temperatures. The most precipitation falls here in summer and winter, which is why the most favorable time for climbing is November, when a constant dense snow cover is established, and winter.

The most dangerous period for climbing the volcano is the spring or autumn months: the weather at this time is bad and unstable, and the temperature at the peaks even in May can drop to -50 degrees Celsius. So, several years ago, a group of twelve climbers attempted to climb the volcano at the end of spring. But due to a sharp deterioration in the weather and loss of visibility, the climbers got lost, and then completely froze to death - only one person was able to go down.

Elbrus rescue station

To avoid such situations, it was decided to create a rescue shelter on Elbrus - work began in 2007 and was completed five years later. Construction was not easy, since materials and fastening systems had to be delivered to great heights, which was done using a helicopter. The shelter was first opened in 2010, but a month later a hurricane completely destroyed the building.

Considering the need for such a structure, it was decided to restore the shelter, but make it smaller and more wind-resistant - and by August 2012, the highest rescue shelter on the European continent was built on the saddle of Elbrus (5300 above sea level).

The highest peak in Russia belongs to the mountain system of the Caucasus Mountains. This is the double-headed Elbrus, located on the border of two Caucasian republics - Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria. The highest mountain in Russia has a height of 5642 meters. Some researchers have awarded it the title of the highest in Europe, but this is not entirely true. The Alpine Mont Blanc (4807) is indeed inferior in height to Elbrus. But Elbrus is located north of the Main Caucasus Ridge, along which the border of Europe and Asia passes. The side ridge, to which Mount Elbrus belongs, clearly belongs to Asia.

Mount Elbrus - photo

The first mentions of the highest peak of Russia in historical literature can be found in the “Book of Victories”. In the descriptions of Tamerlane’s military campaigns there is information that the “great lame man” climbed Elbrus in order to pray there.

At the top of Elbrus

Mount Elbrus - photo

The Caucasus attracted conquerors even at a later time. During the Great Patriotic War, the German special service Ahnenerbe, which was engaged in the study of paranormal phenomena and occult forces, showed great interest in the Elbrus region. During the battle for the Caucasus, a special group was allocated from the mountain riflemen of the Edelweiss division, who in 1942 planted German flags on both peaks of Elbrus. Soviet troops removed them in February 1943, and the Battle of Shelter of Eleven went down in history as the highest altitude battle of the Second World War. To this day, frozen bodies of the dead and various ammunition are found in Caucasian glaciers.

Elbrus is an extinct volcano with two peaks. They are connected by a saddle at an altitude of approximately 5300 meters. The lower peak, which has a height of 5621 meters, is considered by geologists to be younger in age. It has retained a clear crater and a regular cone shape. The older peak of Mount Elbrus, which lies to the trap, has been significantly destroyed.

Two peaks of Elbrus - photo

The greatest peak of the Caucasus last erupted around 50 AD. This does not allow us to call the volcano extinct, since volcanoes that have not erupted in human memory are called extinct. Volcanologists prefer to call it dormant and believe that the peaks of its activity occurred during periods of 30, 100 and 220 thousand years ago. The structure is made of volcanic ash, cooled lava and tuff, arranged in layers.

Mount Elbrus - photo

Mount Elbrus - photo

The slopes of Elbrus, relatively flat at the bottom, above 4000 meters acquire a steepness of up to 35 degrees. It is easier to climb from the east or south, since on the northern and western slopes there are a lot of steep sections with elevation differences of up to 700 meters.

Scheme of the route for climbing Elbrus

All of the Caucasus is characterized by altitudinal zonation, expressed in the alternation of natural zones as it rises from the foot to the top. On Elbrus the snow line is located at an altitude of 3500 meters. Here the alpine meadows end and above there are only rocks, snow and glaciers. Since the snow does not melt above this line, the mountain always has a snow-white cap, which allows it to be called Little Antarctica. This cap is clearly visible in the photo of Mount Elbrus.

Mount Elbrus - photo

The total area of ​​glaciers is 135 square kilometers. Among the largest are Big and Small Azau, as well as Terskop. They serve as the basis for the nutrition of the Caucasus, including Kuban. Numerous tongues of glaciers descend into valleys, where they melt, leaving sediments.
The first documented ascent of the eastern, lower peak took place in 1829. Kabardian Kilar Khashirov, who served as a guide for the Russian expedition, climbed it on July 22.

The height of Mount Elbrus was a great irritant for climbers, and in 1874 the highest point of the Caucasus was conquered by the team of Florence Grove. The true record holder for ascents was a simple hunter Ahiya Sottaev. He was not only the first to visit both peaks, but also made nine ascents, the last one at a more advanced age. At that time he was 121 years old!

The Elbrus region is a popular tourist area. Thanks to volcanic heat, hot mineral springs were formed. Their temperature reaches 60 degrees. Bathing in the springs is used in the prevention and treatment of many types of diseases.

Alpine hotel "Shelter of Eleven"

These places are popular among ski lovers. They offer numerous trails equipped with ski lifts. On most of them the season lasts from October to May, but on peaks above 3800 meters skiing is possible all year round. There are many fans of extreme sports. They get to the very tops of the mountains using helicopters and descend on skis or snowboards. Often such extreme athletes become the culprits of avalanches.

Shelter "barrels"

The tourist attractiveness of Elbrus increased after the Olympics in Sochi. It was used to attract not only Russian, but also foreign tourists and winter sports enthusiasts to the region. This was partially successful, and for foreigners Mount Elbrus is now associated not only with the highest point in Russia, but also with high-quality ski slopes.

Thus, the height of Mount Elbrus, which is more than five and a half kilometers, can become not only part of geographical statistics, but also the starting point for the development of an entire region.

Views from the top of Elbrus