Wine regions of France

For two hundred kilometers from Vienne to Avignon, on both sides of a large river, there are the vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône and their associated vineyards.

Covering an area of ​​approximately 58 thousand hectares and belonging to the appellations of controlled origin, the Côtes du Rhône produces an average of 3 million hectoliters of red, rosé and white wine. The region is divided into two different areas.

Northern regions of Côtes DU RHONE

These are very famous vineyards, which have in common not only a set of varieties, but also extremely difficult conditions for cultivating grapes. Whether we are talking about Condrieu, Cornas or the famous hills of the Hermitage, these are hills with steep slopes, on which only the construction of terraces makes it possible to grow grapes.

So, these vineyards are located on the hillsides on both banks of the Rhone. The soil here is granite and slate. Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier vines produce white wines, while red wines are sourced from the Syrah vine.

On the northern outskirts "Condrieu" and "Château Grillet" Only white wines are produced. The vineyards planted here on terraces are sometimes no more than six feet in size, particularly Chateau Grillet, which is one of the smallest vintage vineyards at 2.6 hectares. Produced from a single Viognier vine, the region's wines have a magnificent, subtle aroma. They are undoubtedly considered one of the best among the famous white French wines.

But five other regions produce red wines.

“Cote Roti” and “Kornas” produce exclusively red wines on a very small area (130 and 60 hectares, respectively). Their production is insignificant in volume. The exceptional composition of these wines makes them suitable for long-term aging.

More significant production "Croze-Hermitage", "Saint-Joseph" and, to a lesser extent "Hermitage Museum", where about 6 thousand hectaliters are produced annually. For the most part, these are red wines, strong and noble. But there is, albeit small in volume, the production of high-quality white wines.

So, the red wines of this region are very distinctive, to which the Syrah variety gives a very lasting color and density, as well as a very persistent aroma. These are long-lasting wines that need to be aged for years, even decades, to enjoy the full bouquet.

Between the two Côtes du Rhône zones and to the east lies the small region of Die, the cradle of excellent frothy wines belonging to the controlled appellation wines "Clairet de Die." They are made from small-sized grapes of the "Clairet" and "Muscat" varieties. This is a light wine with a Muscat bouquet and a pleasant taste.

There is a vineyard not far from Dee "Châtillon-en-Diois" producing red and white wines belonging to controlled appellation wines.

Southern regions of Côtes DU RHONE

In this zone, the soil composition is very different on the two banks of the river.

The soil on the right bank is “skeletal-like” with sand and calcareous sandstones, interspersed with small crushed stone. It is in this area that the varieties that produce noble red wines grow "Côtes du Rhône-Village" rose wines "Shusklyan" and "Saint-Gervais", and also rose and dry white wines "Lodon".

Rose wines are best drunk young. Among the vines that produce these wines, we will indicate the main ones: “Grenache”, “Syrah”, “Mourvèdre”, “Cinsault”, as well as white varieties “Picpoul”, “Bourboulian”, “Clairet”. Two places constitute the pearls of this coast: "Tavel" - France's first rosé wine "Lirak" and both are produced on soils consisting of large rounded pebbles.

On the left bank, just north of Avignon, there is a vineyard "Châteauneuf-du-Pape" one of the most famous in France for its red wines. This wine is deeply coloured, spiced, heady, powerful, superbly balanced and ages with great grace. It is produced from various vines planted on sandy or alluvial soils, covered several meters deep with a layer of large, rounded pebbles. During the day, these pebbles accumulate heat and release it to the grapes at night. As a result, the wine is rich in alcohol (12.5-14 percent). White “Châteauneuf-du-Pape” (5 percent of the harvest) is a rare wine with a very delicate bouquet.

Red wine is produced on the same left bank "Girondas" Rich and spicy, it also comes in rosé.

Guilt "Côtes du Rhône-Village" produced in the departments of Drôme, Vaucluse, and Gard. 17 communes - sources of wine have the right to be mentioned on the label: Rochegude, Saint-Maurice, Vensaubre, Queran, Rousset-les-Vignes, Saint-Pantaleon-les-Vignes, Seguré, Vaqueras, Valreas, Visan, Laudon, Sable, Saint- Gervais, Shusklyan, Roex, Rasto,- which is also known for its Natural Sweet Wine, and "Bom de Venise" which adds delicious wine to its halo "Muscat".

The two Côtes du Rhône regions also produce red, white and rosé wines of excellent quality. They are sold under the name "Cotes du Rhone" and reflect the enormous diversity of the localities where they are produced.

TRICASTENE, VANTOU, LUBERON, VIVARE

We are talking about four vineyards located in the vicinity of the southern Rhone zone. The varieties grown here are the same as those in the Côtes du Rhône region and produce mainly red and rosé wines, although white wines are also produced in smaller quantities. Well-chosen and tart, they have a special bouquet of the area. These are pleasant wines that pair well with Southern cuisine. “Cotes du Tricastin”, “Cotes du Ventoux” and “Cotes du Luberon” have the right to an appellation of controlled origin; guilt "Côtes du Vivaret" belong to premium quality vintage wines.

Book “Wines of France: main varieties, regions and appellations” Authors: Raskov Vasily, Kovalev Dmitry, Kirilin Ilya Publisher: Eksmo Pages: 312 Paper: coated Weight: 1554 g Dimensions: 287x217x23 mm The book from the famous company “Simple Wine” covers in detail all the features and aspects of winemaking in France for each of its wine regions. The advice given in the book will help you better navigate the choice of French wines and create an interesting route for an independent wine tour.

Anna Lee Iijima, editor of Wine Enthusiast, learned first-hand during a wine trip through the magical Rhône Valley that a single wine region can produce distinctly different wines with distinct regional identities. Together with Anna, we will meet the legendary winemakers of the Rhone Valley, whose modest life is inextricably linked to the land, vines and such changeable weather.

If there are regions in the world that can illustrate for wine lovers in all colors the hard work of winemaking, then the Rhone Valley will be in the first place. The noble, elegant wines of the north and the hot, heady wines of the south, despite their differences, create the glory of the Rhone Valley.

A few weeks after the end of the November harvest, I embarked on an exciting journey through the vineyards and wineries of the Rhone Valley. Stretching across the region from north to south for more than 240 kilometers, this wine-growing area is divided by the Rhone River, which begins its flow in the Swiss Alps and then makes its way through south-eastern France, heading towards the Mediterranean Sea.

The river valley separates the Massif Central from the Alps, and creates a corridor from Central Europe to the Mediterranean Sea. The Rhône Valley is considered a large region in the world of winemaking, where within 28 appellations the south and north, so dissimilar in their identities, come together, demonstrating the diversity of 27 grape varieties, terroirs and styles. But it is worth remembering that the dominance of the southern part in terms of the size of the vineyards is difficult to overestimate - 95% of all Rhone Valley wines come from the southern part.

The steep slopes of the northern Rhône, which can be seen in full beauty from the top of the idyllic Hermitage Hill near the iconic chapel-hermitage of St. Christopher, iconic of the Paul Jaboulet Hainet domain, are the spiritual home of the most noble examples of Syrah in the world. Wines from the legendary Hermitage, Cote-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph and Cornas appellations are sought after by the world's most famous wine collectors.

Experienced oenophiles will confirm that every encounter with the wines of the granite and slate terroirs of the Northern Rhone is a truly magical event. In winter, light snow cover can sometimes be observed in these vineyards, which confirms the northern origin of the wine. In contrast to the heights of the Northern Rhone, the traveler discovers the softer slopes and plains of the Southern Rhone, where it is difficult not to notice the colorful Mediterranean influence. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah growing here are literally imbued with the hot and life-giving energy of the sun.

Southern Rhone

A few hours after a tiring flight from New York to Paris, bleary-eyed but very thirsty, I arrived at the first point of my wine route - Château L'Hermitage, belonging to the Costier-de-Nîmes appellation. Once considered part of the Languedoc zone, since 2004 Costières de Nîmes has become the southernmost appellation of the Rhône Valley. Local red blends consist of grenache, mourvedre and syrah, which grow literally a step away from the Mediterranean Sea. The best examples from this area exhibit rich and enticing black fruit aromas. These are lush, fresh and slightly earthy wines that convey the energy of southern terroirs.

According to the chief winemaker and owner of Château L'Hermitage, Jerome Castillon, the local residents miraculously combine French, Italian and Spanish influences. “Here we like bouillabaisse more than cassoulet,”- Jerome confidentially reports while preparing brunch in a wood-burning oven in an old stable. Prepared in the simplest rural form, local dishes are striking in their variety - rich omelettes with wild mushrooms, fried eggplants with a thick tapenade sauce, sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh bread and an abundance of cheeses along with a variety of sausages.

Diane de Pumorand, founder and owner of Château d'Or et de Geulle in the Costières de Nimes appellation, is one of many dynamic female winemakers in the Rhône Valley. She left a successful business career in Paris and in 1989 acquired a winery, whose production at that time was aimed at selling bulk wine. Thanks to her efforts, the production has grown into a small winery that specializes in producing high-quality organic wines. The example of Diana and her small winery fits into the framework of modern winemaking trends in the Rhone Valley.

When I came to visit her, de Pumoran was entirely busy picking olives, her arms up to her elbows hidden in barrels with a well-deserved harvest. She took the time to take me on a walk through her vineyards. She calls the spreading 100-year-old vines of Mourvèdre and Carignan with extremely low yields nothing more than “grandmothers.” The famous cold northwest wind, the Mistral, blew so strongly that I could hardly keep up with the energetic and calm gait of the owner of these lands.

• rich and truly big wine from the Southern Rhone "Quintessence", Cotes du Ventoux, 2015;
• a hot GSM blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre) from the Southern Rhone appellation called Lirac "Chateau Mont-Redon" Rouge, Lirac AOC, 2014;
• King of the Southern Rhone - Chateauneuf-du-Pape with excellent storage potential from the illustrious Perrin family Perrin et Fils, "Les Sinards", Chateauneuf-du-Pape AOC, 2014.

Northern Rhone

In contrast to the powerful and energetic wines of the south, the noble wines of the Northern Rhône are defined by their elegance, exclusivity and outstanding storage potential. Despite its fame among wine enthusiasts, the region's total wine production represents only 5% of all wines produced in the Rhone Valley.

Even renowned producers of the Côte-Rôtie appellation, such as Jean-Paul Jamet, have built their reputations in the wine world on properties totaling just 17 hectares. Syrah is the sole ruler in this region, only occasionally allowing the outstanding whites of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne to rise to the high throne. In the Northern Rhone there is a unique appellation with granite terraces, which is called the winery of the same name, Château Grillet, this is the only (!) producer in this zone that produces only white wines from the Viognier variety.

At first glance, it may seem that in the Northern Rhône everything works differently from the rest of the wine world. Judge for yourself - the ancient wine-growing commune of Sessuel (the city of Vienne), which is considered the northernmost in the Rhone and was known back in the days of the ancient Romans, has not yet received the status of an official appellation of the Northern Rhone. The thing is that commercial winemaking in this commune resumed relatively recently; many of the iconic winemakers of the Northern Rhone saw the potential of this zone, starting to plant vines on ancient terraces. At the moment, wines from Sessuel bear the modest name Vin de Pays, which makes them extremely attractive to connoisseurs of the price/quality combination. The best examples have the qualities of more expensive wines from Cote-Rôtie.

The top red wines of the Northern Rhône are distinguished by a delicate combination of strength and subtlety, with dizzying aromas of violets, raspberries, olives, smoke, earth and smoked meats. The steep and rocky slopes on which the best vineyards lie prevent producers from using not only modern technology for processing and harvesting grapes, but even the favorite animals of many winemakers - horses. Working in these vineyards turns out to be difficult and sometimes dangerous work; some winemakers from the small Condrieu appellation hire locals who are able to work at high altitudes using a safety net, almost like mountain climbers, during pruning and harvesting.

Having seen with your own eyes the work of winemakers in the Northern Rhône, you begin to understand the complex price they pay for each bottle of wine they produce. There are no extra people in these places, because in order to engage in winemaking in this harsh region, you must devote all of yourself to this noble, but such a difficult task.

• wine from the historic Hermitage hill of an excellent year (vintage rating 10 out of 10) Tardieu-Laurent, Hermitage AOC, 2010;
• classic Northern Rhine blend of 95% Syrah with the addition of 5% white Viognier from the oldest domaine in Cote-Rotie Domaine Duclaux, "La Germine" Cote-Rotie AOC, 2011;
• a blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Roussanne from the small Saint-Peray appellation from one of the most talented winemakers of the Northern Rhone, Pierre Gaillard Pierre Gaillard, Saint-Peray AOC, 2015.

The material was prepared based on an article by Anna Lee Iijima/www.winemag.com
Prepared and translated by Ilya Kuznetsov.
All rights to published photographs belong to their authors. Photos are published for informational purposes.

The northern Rhône Valley produces mostly red wines, with Syrah being the dominant grape. Syrah, like Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux, produces the darkest and sharpest red wine in France.

The greatest wines of the Northern Rhône are Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, two small vineyards less than a fifth the size of any large wine-growing village in Bordeaux. Hermitage is one of the strongest wines in France, while Cote-Rotie - skillfully blended from Syrah and white Viognier grapes - is one of the most fragrant and aromatic wines in France. The Cornas wines are teeth-staining black, while the St-Joseph wines are almost calm and sweet. The large Crozes-Hermitage appellation is also good, producing Hermitage wine - quite meaty, with a fruity tone and very valuable.

Despite the predominance of red wines, there are also white ones. Viognier grapes are used to make Condrieu and Cliateau-Grillet - amazingly tasty and rare. Marsanne and Roussanne grapes are used to make not only white Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, but also white St-Joseph and rare St-Peray wine. If you walk a long way east from Balance, you will eventually reach the River Drome, where, high in the foothills, the Muscat and Claret grapes are used to make Clairette de Die - a delicious, light, very fresh sparkling wine.

Cote-Rotie. "Toasted Slope" is an apt nickname for this appellation as it is located on a hot, rocky escarpment and produces some of the best wines. This is a small appellation, with only about 100 hectares of vineyards. Unfortunately, there is a cynical expansion of this appellation to another plateau beyond the river bend. If nothing is done to separate the hillside wine from the lowland wine, the reputation of this expensive, high-value vineyard will decline. Experienced winegrowers such as Jasmin, Guigal and Jamet produce amazingly aromatic Cote-Rotie red wine, in which the harshness of the Syrah grape is softened by the divine aroma and soft, autumn-sweet white Viognier. Top producers: Gilles Barge, Pierre Barge, Burgaud, Champet, Clusel-Roch, Gentaz-Dervieux, Guigal, Jamet, Rene Rostaing, Verriay and Vidal-Fleury.

Chateau-Grillet. Brand of wine and one of the smallest appellations in France, only 4 hectares. This white wine should have the magical smell of a blooming orchard. If you are lucky with the choice and you feel it, then the huge price of the wine will be justified.

Condrieu. This small appellation has grown from 10 hectares in 1960 to as much as 40 today. And now it contains grapes planted in the early 90s and in less than ideal places. Condrieu is located on a bend in the river, just above Chateau-Grillet. The Condrieu wine has an amazing taste - the apricot aroma balances between the juicy, sweet, fruity softness and the tingling acidity of a strong, rather dry white wine. It is worth the numerous efforts involved in purchasing and the high price. However, I must say that Condrieu is now in danger of losing its high reputation unless action is taken to stop overproduction and the granting of appellation rights to unsuitable flat lands above traditional hillsides.

Top producers: Cuilleron, Dezor-meaiis, Rumazci, Guigal, Mulder, Perret, Jean Pinchon, Niero Pinchon, du Rozay and Vernay.

Hermitage. The Hermitage hills loom over the city of Taine, they are so steep and sharp that it seems hardly possible to cultivate anything there. But these 125 hectares of vineyards produce some of the greatest red and sparkling white wines of the Rhône. They were once described as the most masculine wines in France. Men would be delighted to combine such strength and fiery resilience in youth with such rich, thoughtful brilliance in adulthood. Hermitage reds always have a firm, subtle smoky flavor, and Syrah gives off a deep raspberry and blackcurrant flavor that no other grape has. White Hermitage is heavy and boring at first, confirming the title of the best white wine in France, but over the years it acquires a soft, pleasant nutty flavor. In fact, when almost ripe, it can outperform even the red Hermitage.

Top producers: Belle, Chapoutier, Chnc, Delas, Bernard Faurie, Fayolle, Ferraton, Grippal, Guigal, Jaboulet, Sorrel and Viale.

St. Joseph. This is yet another Northern Rhône appellation suffering from pointless expansion into unsuitable land, even though the boundaries have recently been moved back to exclude the least suitable terrain. Still, a good St-Joseph is a delightful wine, softer and lighter than Hermitage, with a blackcurrant tone in good years.

The best producers: Chapoutier, Chore, Courbis, Coursodon, Desmeure, Florentin, Gaillard, Gonon, Gripa, Grippal, Jaboulet, Pinchon, cooperative St,-D

Comas. This wine is closer in weight to Hermitage, but lacks some of the fresh fruity Tone that makes Hermitage so great. It usually requires a little patience to understand it.

Top producers: Balthazar, de Barjac, Clape, Colombo, Courbis, Juge, Lionnet, Robert Michel, Verset and Alain Voge.

Crozes-Hermitage. Potentially large wine producing area, mostly red. Serves as an extremely good source of Syrah wine, with a smoky undertone and plummy tone, sometimes equaling Hermitage in quality.

Top producers: Belle, Chapoutier, Stephane Cornu Chateau de Curson, Delas, Fayolle, Desmeure, Graillot, Jaboulet, Pochon, Pradelle and the Tain cooperative.

St Peray. It was once the most famous sparkling wine in France after champagne. Once upon a time, but not now. Although it's quite good, it always seems rather limp and not very fresh. Still white wines also suffer from a rusticity that must be overcome to make them sell well in the current boom in white wines.

The best manufacturers: Clape, Fauterie, Grippat, Juge, Thiers and Voge.

Clairette de Die. Wonderful sparkling Muscat wine of high quality. Cremant de Die, which lacks nutmeg flavor, is not as delicious.

Top producers: Achard-Vincent, Raspail and Die cooperative.

Chatillon-en-Diois. A calm wine made in the wonderful valleys around Die, where the sparkling Clairette de Die is produced. The reds are mostly made from Gamay grapes, with the addition of Syrah and Pinot Noir. The whites are mostly aligote with some chardonnay added. And although red wines are a little harsh and whites a little sharp, if you add more Chardonnay and Syrah, you can get very interesting results. Best Producer: Cooperative Die.

CLASSIFICATION

Classification in the Northern Rhône is mainly done by simply geographically assigning wine regions around a single appellation. A couple of producers label their wines Grand Cru, but these are not the Crus that are accepted by the official classification in Bordeaux. Some vineyards are nevertheless widely known, being better than others, but their names rarely appear on labels. In any case, most Northern Rhône wines are a blend of several wines within an appellation.

ORGANIZATION

The Northern Rhône is one of the few areas where fame can be said to be fairly evenly distributed between the blended wines of merchants and the wines of private growers. Recently, there has been an increase in the number of winegrowers bottling their own wine. Leading merchants have a large number of land plots and even in lean years will benefit because they have the opportunity to mix wines from different plots. Quality standards among local winegrowers are high. Family pride of several generations and a small plot of land is a serious incentive to strive for excellence. There are several cooperatives in the area, and the best one is probably St-Desirat.

READING THE LABEL

Rona's labels are quite easy to understand. They follow the Burgundian pattern: the main name of a district or village, but not the Grand Cru pattern. Some major wines are often sold without vintage designation.

ABOUT TASTE

Better sit down before you start reading this, because the flavor descriptions of these wines could hit you at any moment like a broken dam. Hidden on the steep banks above a river valley near Lyon, red Syrah and white Viognier embody two of the most astonishing flavors the world of wine has to offer. White Viognier, In Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet, has such an exotic aroma of apricot, a crazy mixture of fresh May flowers and the musk of ripe autumn fruits, that you are choked by this exquisite beauty.

“Sira” will also delight you. In young Hermitage and Comas, these heavy, coarse grapes are tannic, with a hint of resin and wood smoke, and a deep, awkward sweetness of dark molasses. But give him time. Five years, maybe ten, then try again. The wine will change like the sea. A slight smoky note will still remain, but the raw aromas will become sweet, tangy, full of raspberry, blackberry and cassis. The Syrah wine is so good that I highly recommend trying it. And you should drink it sitting down, too, in case you find it as delicious as I do.

GOOD YEARS

The terrible beginning of the 90s, as in all of France, also affected the Northern Rhone. However, recent years have been more successful and the quality of wines continues to improve.

2000 A very good year. Cote-Rotie wines promise to be exceptional.

1999 An outstanding vintage with well-structured and long-lived wines.

1998 Small harvest of good wines worthy of aging.

1997 A good year, but most likely worse than 1996.

1996 A very good year, similar to 1995.

1995 Excellent wines were made despite the September rains.

1994 Due to the rains, the wines of this vintage should be drunk young. At least they are already ripe.

1993 Pale year, best avoided.

1992 Not a very successful year, and only the best brands can impress. This year's wines should already be drunk.

1991 Cote-Rotie was the star this year and produced excellent wines. The rest of the northern part didn't disappoint either.

1990 Hot, dry year, but the northern regions produced excellent wines. Although Cote-Rotie was more successful in 1991.

1989 Hot, dry year. The quality is a little uneven, but the best wines are rich and highly concentrated.

1988 High tannin wines, the best being Cote-Rotie and Hermitage.

1987 Very diverse. Most wines should already be drunk.

1986 Many mediocre and diluted wines.

1985 Amazing, classic, brilliant wines. The year is particularly good for Cote-Rotie, St-Joseph and Cornas.

1983 Rich, classic Hermitage and Cornas.

Old vintages 1978, 1971, 1970, 1967.

HOW TO DRINK THEM

All, without exception, red and white wines of the Northern Rhone have a persistent aroma that does not fade away. Red wines are excellent with royal roasts and game, but are more often served with local dishes casseroles and charcuterie.

Whites are more difficult to pair with food because they have relatively little acidity, which makes white wine refreshing. But simply cooked chicken, pork or local fish will go well with most of them. Muscat Clairette de Die is an amazing aperitif.

INFORMATION FOR BUYER

WHAT AM I PAYING FOR?

The best wines are now very expensive by any standard, although they represent the most charming flavors of France, and I do not consider them excessively expensive. We've simply become accustomed to thinking of Rhône wines as underrated and are now amazed to discover that this is no longer the case. If you want good quality at a lower price, check out Crozes-Hermitage or St-Joseph. If you think Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet made from Viognier are too expensive, there are now wines from this grape made in the Midi. Not as great, but much cheaper.

AVAILABILITY

Not everywhere. Crozes-Hermitage is a fairly large appellation and many outlets will have some good examples. St-Joseph is relatively easy to find. More expensive and rare wines have limited releases.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde, 1995 (Guigal) quality 9*, price 9*, value 8*

Good years: The Northern Rhône has been lucky over the past 20 years, with only two bad harvests (1993 and a rain-spoiled 1992). The huge increase in prices for Northern Rhône wines has also contributed to a significant improvement in quality. Best years: 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994, 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1985.

Notes on taste: The red wines of the Northern Rhône are strong, boisterous, with aromas of blackcurrant, smoke and spice. They repay age but can be inscrutable and when young Condrieu white wines can be wonderfully exotic; others may simply be heavy. Viognier wines are at their best when young; other whites can be tolerated.

Rhone Valley(Cotes du Rhône)– one of the 12 main wine regions of France. Located in the southeast of the country, running 240 km along the Rhone River from north to south: from Leon to the Rhone Delta, close to the Mediterranean coast.

This extent means that wine from this region represents a wide range of results, born of different soil types and different mesoclimates. The wine-growing territory is so extended that an almost unconditionally accepted division has developed into wines from the northern part and wines from the southern part of the region. Between them there is a distinguishable interval of about 40 km - between the cities of Valence and Montélimar - where there are almost no vineyards.

This division is reflected not only in geography and preferred grape varieties, but also in the quality and quantity of wines produced.

The smaller, more quality-conscious northern region focuses almost entirely on red wines from the Syrah variety and white wines from the Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne varieties.

The larger and more prolific southern part uses many more varieties, the main ones being the trio called "Rhône blend": Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre, which is the hallmark of the southern Rhone.

While the northern half has granite-rich slopes and a continental climate, the southern half has rocky, sandy plains and warmer winters similar to Mediterranean conditions.

In terms of prestige, the north and south of the Rhone Valley are also not equal. The north is home to old and established names such as Hermitage and Cote Roti, which, however, make up only 5% of the total wine production in the valley. The remaining 95% is produced in the south, mainly under little-known brands. But it cannot be said that the south has nothing to boast of, because this is where the famous appellation is located Chateauneuf-du-Pape(Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

The one common constant for both parts of the Rhone Valley is the common appellation Côtes du Rhône, which allows the production of red, rosé and white wines in any part of the region, in a total of 171 communes: from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south - towns marking the beginning and end of the main valley, where wines are produced according to the rules of the general appellation, but do not live up to the more stringent requirements of the specific terroirs of Saint-Joseph and Gigondas, which have separate appellations.

Cotes du Rhone Village

Cotes du Rhone Villages

The Côtes du Rhône Village appellation is tied to specific villages whose terroir allows them to produce wine of slightly higher quality than the regional average. And it so happened that they crowded together in the southern part of the Rhone - in the vicinity of the city of Orange.

A select group of about 20 such villages (the list is not permanent) are allowed to add their name to the Côtes du Rhône Village inscription on the label, resulting in those wonderful designs that we love French labels for, like Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint-Maurice-sur-Eygues.

And there is another important piece of territory that stands out from the obvious “north-south” division: the region Di(Die) in the eastern part of the Rhone. The ancient city of Die is located 50 km from Valence and Montelimar, at the foot of the French Alps.

It produces sparkling wine under the Clairette de Die and Cremant de Die appellations. And a little more quiet white Coteaux de Die

Dee is not the only example of a distinctive white wine from the Rhône Valley.

Condrieu(Condrieu) in the north - rich, mostly dry white wine from the Viognier variety with an interesting floral and honey bouquet.

Muscat de Baume de Venise(Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise)- a sweet white wine that completes the stylistic repertoire of the Rhone Valley.

The Rhone Valley - Vallée du Rhone - is a vast region in the south of France, stretching along both banks of the Rhone River, which originates in the Alps and flows into the Mediterranean Sea.

Rhone Valley in numbers:

• 6 departments
• The total area of ​​vineyards is 71,014 hectares (the second region in France after Bordeaux in terms of the number of wines produced)
• 7,400 hectares have organic and/or biodynamic certificates
• 27 appellations (AOC), of which 2 produce naturally sweet wines (Rasteau, Muscat de Baume de Venise)
• 27 permitted grape varieties
• 400 million bottles sold in 2012-13 in 159 countries
• In 2013, the following wines were produced: 79% red wines, 15% rose wines, 6% white wines

A little history

Winemaking in the Rhone Valley supposedly began in the 4th-3rd centuries BC. thanks to the ancient Greeks. In the first centuries AD, local wines were already known in Rome. The Romans built the city of Vienne and created huge vineyards around it, carrying out extensive work to create terraces and walls supporting these terraces on steep slopes. The fall of the Roman Empire caused severe damage to winemaking in the region, because... The invasion of barbarians, as elsewhere in Europe, led to the death of the vineyards. The revival of winemaking occurred only in the Middle Ages. In the northern part of the valley, the religious orders of the Carthusians and Cistercians played a major role in the development of viticulture. In the south, a strong impetus for its development was given first by the activities of the Templars (12th century), then by the move of the papal court to Avignon in 1309. It was not for nothing that the highest church dignitaries were known as great lovers of wine: on their orders, vineyards were laid out throughout the area, in particular in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where the popes owned a large estate and fortress.

But when the products of Rhone winemakers began to gain popularity, this caused discontent among their northern neighbors. In the 14th-16th centuries, the Burgundians introduced a ban on the transportation of Rhone wines through their territory, declaring them “unacceptably bad.” The region has entered a protracted crisis. When the blockade ended, the Rhone wines were able to partially regain their lost positions. Their success is evidenced by the facts of numerous fakes. In order to put an end to this fraud, in 1737. A royal decree was issued ordering the abbreviation C.D.R to be burned on the barrels of Rhone wines. (Côte du Rhône). But a long stay in the shade could not but affect the state of winemaking.

Until very recently, the wines of the Rhone Valley were completely unknown, completely eclipsed by the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, from which the Rhone lagged far behind. The first signs of a qualitative rise appeared only in the 20s. XX century, stable progress began in the second half of the 60s, but a real breakthrough occurred only at the turn of the 80-90s of the XX century. And today the wines of this region occupy an honorable place among the best wine-producing regions.

The Rhone Valley is divided into two different regions - North and South. In fact, each of these parts represents two different wine-growing regions, since the nature of the soils, terrain and climatic conditions in them are completely different.

The Northern Rhône is a narrow strip of vineyards along both banks of the river. It has a semi-continental climate, which means relatively cold winters, warm springs and moderately hot summers. Precipitation rates are average. The underlying layer is characterized by a predominance of granite crushed stone. The top layer is limestone, silica, shale, sandstone. What is most striking about the local landscape is the steepness of the slopes on which the vineyards are located, the angle of inclination on some hills is 60°. The Northern Rhône produces only about 5% of all Rhône Valley wines. In the Southern Rhone - 95%.

The Southern Rhône differs significantly both in climate and in the nature of the wines produced. The climate of the Southern Rhone is close to Mediterranean. It is very hot here, sometimes dry. Drought often gives way to heavy downpours. Periodically (120-160 days a year) the mistral blows - a dry and cold north wind, the speed of which reaches 90 km/h. The subsoil is dominated by clay, sand, limestone, and marl. In many places the ground is completely covered with pebbles. The stones provide good drainage, heat up overnight and retain heat for a long time at night. The terrain is flatter than in the Northern Rhône. Due to the heat, the grapes pick up significant amounts of sugar, so the wines produced here typically have a high alcohol content. Unlike the Northern Rhone, almost all Southern Rhone wines are produced by assemblage (mixing several varieties)

Main grape varieties

Reds

Syrah. There are several versions about its origin: from Persia (Shiraz), from where it was allegedly brought by the ancient Greeks, from Syracuse in Sicily with the help of the Romans, and autochthonous (i.e. the Rhone Valley is its homeland).

Syrah produces wines that are very rich in color, aromatic, quite alcoholic, tannic, but not very acidic, and can age for a long time. These wines are characterized by aromas of black berries - blackberries, blueberries, currants), dark chocolate, sweet spicy notes (licorice, cloves), and with age - leather, truffles, pepper and even earth and animal notes.

Grenache. The Grenache grape's homeland is most likely Spain, where it is known as Garnacha.
Wines with high alcohol levels and low acidity. Rarely have a rich color, but are usually characterized by fullness. The typical aroma of red berries (strawberries, raspberries) with hints of spices (white pepper, licorice, cloves) is typical for them. With age, nuances of caramel and leather are added to the spicy notes. Thanks to the thin skin of the berries, Grenache is well suited for the production of rosé wines.

Mourvedre. This variety produces very powerful, rich, tannic wines. Young wines have aromas of black berries, pepper with notes of bay leaves and southern herbs; with age, quite complex aromas of leather, truffles, dark berry confiture, and spices appear.

Senso (Sinsault). Gives a not very intense color to wines, bright fruity aromas, soft tannins and low acidity. Ideal for the production of rose wines.

White

Marsan. Gives wines good structure and density, medium acidity. Aromas of flowers and nuts, which become especially pronounced as the wine ages.

Rusan. The wines are very fine and elegant, refined, very aromatic (floral notes). When blended with Marsanne it produces very complex, rich, long-lived wines.

Viognier. Viognier produces complex, full-bodied, “fat” wines with very bright aromas of apricot, dried apricots, peach, mango, nuts (hazelnuts and almonds), flowers (acacia, iris, violet), and spices.

It should be noted that in the Rhone Valley there is no division, unlike Bordeaux and Burgundy, of wines and vineyards into Grand and Premier Cru categories. This is not due to the lack of great terroirs, but to the reluctance of local winemakers to introduce any hierarchical classifications. Although some wine critics informally use the term grand cru to refer to the most outstanding terroirs.

All appellations of the Rhone Valley, depending on the quality of the wines produced, can be divided into several levels:

The regional appellation Côtes du Rhône is the largest regional appellation in France (after Bordeaux). Most of the wines are produced in the Southern Rhône. The basis for most of these wines is Grenache (at least 40%), Syrah and Mourvèdre. The French themselves call this blend abbreviated GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre). For whites, they mainly use White Grenache, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier. Among the producers there are merchant companies, cooperatives, and wine estates. Most wines are not intended for long aging; these are so-called “everyday” wines and are intended to be consumed with simple food. But you can also find very good examples - mainly among red wines.

The next level is subregional - Côtes du Rhône Villages (Côtes du Rhône Village), where wines are produced (mainly red), distinguished, in particular, by the ability to age longer (up to 8 years). The maximum yield is limited to 35 hl/ha, in some cases - 42 hl/ha. Some communes that are part of the “Côtes du Rhône-Village” may add their own name to this name (there may be 18 such communes in total):

“Valreas”, “Vinsobres”, “Visan”, “Cairanne”, “Laudun”, “Rochegude”, “Roaix”, “ Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Seguret, Saint-Gervais, Saint-Maurice-sur-Aigues -Maurice-sur-Eygues), “Saint-Pantaleon-les-Vignes”, “Chusclan”, “Puymeras”, “Massif d’Huchot” 'Uchaux), “Bagnoles-sur-Ceze”, “Plan de Dieu”.

The next highest level is the so-called crus - vineyards, the wines from which clearly convey the individual characteristics of the terroir (they make up only 20% of the total production, there are only 18 of them - 8 in the Northern Rhone and 10 in the Southern Rhone.

Northern Rhone

Côte Rôtie (Cote Roti), literally translated as “toasted slope”. Area 276 hectares.

One of the best appellations for red wines. The central and best part of this vineyard consists of two parts: Côte Brune, where the soils are dark with a predominance of clay, and Côte Blonde, with lighter, light limestone soils with a high content of sand. Wines made from Côte Blonde are lighter and mature faster than Côte Brune wines. If the wine comes from only one of these two sites, the producer may indicate this on the label.

Excellent red wines are produced here. The main variety is Syrah, but traditionally winemakers still add a little Viognier to balance out the rich spicy notes. The share of Syrah in the blend must be at least 80%. The result is wines with completely magical and unexpected aromas: raspberry, drunken cherry, violet, resin and smoke, spices, truffles, black pepper and even black olives. In general, the wines are characterized as powerful, but at the same time feminine and elegant. These wines can be consumed young, but are best drunk after six to eight years of aging. And for the best specimens, the development potential of wine in a bottle can reach several decades.

Chateau-Grillet (Chateau Grillet). The area of ​​this vineyard is only 3.5 hectares. Dry white wines from Viognier are produced here. Despite the fact that this vineyard is located next to the more famous Condrieu, the wines from Chateau Grillet are noticeably different from it. The unique terroir on a steep southern slope and long aging (about a year and a half) in oak barrels make it possible to obtain a more complex and long-lived wine. It can live 8-20 years.

Condrieu (Condrieu). The area of ​​vineyards today is 168 hectares. This is the northernmost region in the Rhone Valley where white wines are produced. The only permitted variety is Viognier, from which dry white wines and very few naturally sweet wines (from late harvest grapes) are produced. The wines are soft, round, fatty, and despite low acidity, fresh and very aromatic (peach, apricot, apricot kernels, honey, cream, hawthorn, linden blossom). These wines are sensitive to oxidation, so they are best drunk young; they last an average of two to four years.
Saint-Joseph (Saint-Joseph). 1200 ha. Best known for its Syrah wines. The wines are both powerful and refined with spicy and peppery notes, with aroma of raspberries, violets and black currants. On average they live up to five years. White wines are also produced here - about 10% - from Marsanne and Roussanne. Overall, good value for money for wines in this appellation.

Hermitage, or less commonly - Ermitage (Hermitage). 136 hectares
The high hill and storied history have given this "Grand Cru" of the Northern Rhône an almost mythical reputation. The Hermitage is one of the best and most prestigious wine regions in the world. Red and white Hermitages from leading producers are ranked among the greatest wines in the world. All 136 hectares of this area face south.

This area received its name in memory of the knight Gaspard Sterimber, who in 1224 participated in the crusade, but tired of constant battles, decided to become a hermit (in French - ermite). The former crusader settled on the banks of the Rhone, built a chapel there and took up winemaking. According to legend, it was he who found the vines of this ancient grape variety of Persian origin (original name - Shiraz) near Jerusalem and brought it to France. After the death of de Sterimberg, other hermits lived in these places. The hermitage stood not far from the road connecting Lyon with the Mediterranean coast, and many travelers stopped here to pray and taste the wine of the hermits, whose fame was constantly growing. This is how the name “Hermitage” (literally “hermit’s dwelling”) arose, which became so famous that already in the 17th century they learned about it in England and at the court of the Russian tsars. In these places they say that Hermitage wines were delivered to Great Britain through Bordeaux under the very unusual name “Bordeaux-Hermitage”. And today the chapel still stands on the top of a majestic hill, which seems to guard the passage to the valley.
Classic ripe wine from this region is distinguished by its excellent structure, power, great complexity, high tannin content, density, fatness and at the same time harmony, sophistication and a very rich bouquet, which is characterized by the aromas of ripe berries, spices (especially black pepper and Provençal herbs) , truffles, leather, graphite, precious woods and balsamic resins. Produced from the Syrah variety, the addition of 15% Roussanne and Marsanne is allowed. Hermitages from good millezims and from leading producers take a long time to mature - from 7 to 25 years. Wine experts sometimes define red wine from the Hermitage as a “masculine” wine.

In the first half of the 19th century, some Bordeaux merchants even purchased red wines from the Hermitage to “strengthen” their wines.

This region also produces white wines from the Roussanne and Marsanne varieties. White Hermitages are characterized as complex, well-balanced, fatty, with tones of iris, fresh hay, almonds, hazelnuts, and apricots. The aging potential of these wines is 20-25 years. Some samples are capable of reaching 40 years of age.

Crozes-Hermitage

The largest appellation in the northern part of the Rhone Valley, Crozes-Hermitage (Crozes-Hermitage or Crozes-Ermitage) (1514 hectares) has always existed as if in the shadow of its famous neighbor. It surrounds Hermitage Hill on all sides.

However, the lands of individual vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage are sometimes quite different from each other, which ensures a certain variety of wines of a given appellation. Nevertheless, often in the wines of Crozes-Hermitage one can find features of similarity with the products of the Hermitage, since they are made from the same grape varieties: red ones from Syrah with the addition of no more than 15% Marsanne and Roussanne, whites - only from Marsanne and Roussanne. However, the grapes here are grown on more fertile soils, so the wines are somewhat lighter and simpler. Red wines do not require long aging, although they can be stored for 3-10 years. Syrah gives them strength, a characteristic aroma of spices and red berries, as well as softness and grace.

White wines, compared to Hermitage, are inferior in complexity and intensity of aroma, where floral tones predominate, but they are very fresh and drink well. Their aging potential is 1-4 years.

Cornas (131 hectares) is the last of the Northern Rhone appellations where red wine is made. They also make a dark, rich Syrah wine that connoisseurs can only drink after several years of aging in the bottle.
As for the correct pronunciation, those who are at least a little familiar with the French language know that usually the “S” at the end of words is not pronounced (Chablis - Chablis, Bougros - Bugro, Clos - Clos), which is what the inhabitants of northern and central France do , but in the southern regions of France it is usually pronounced s, so the French themselves pronounce Gigondas, Cornas as “Gigondas”, “Cornas”, which is what we will do too.

Saint-Péray (Saint-Péray) (73 hectares) – dry white wines from the Roussanne and Marsanne varieties are produced here. The relatively cool microclimate increases the acidity in the grapes, so white sparkling wines are made here from the same varieties under the Saint-Péray Mousseux appellation using the traditional (champagne) method. But their production volumes are very small.

Southern Rhone:

If in the Northern Rhone the king of red wines is Syrah, then in the Southern Rhone the main variety is Grenache Noire, and Syrah is used as an auxiliary variety in blends. This region is very hot, and in this climate Syrah does not produce such outstanding results as in the Northern Rhône.

Other important varieties include Mourvèdre, which is capable of producing fine and long-lived wines.
There is something Mediterranean in the wines of the Southern Rhône – they seem to be filled with sunshine. Many red wines have a garrigue aroma. In the southern provinces of France, this is the name given to heathlands and steppes overgrown with aromatic herbs and shrubs. In tasting descriptions, comparing the aroma of wine with garrigues implies the presence in the wine of clearly noticeable aromas of anise, laurel, thyme, lavender, Provençal herbs, as well as dry hot earth and stones. Plant-floral and spicy aromas are also characteristic of many white wines from the south.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is the most famous appellation of the Southern Rhone with an area of ​​3,161 hectares. This wine-growing region owes its name (literally “New Castle of the Pope”) to an important historical event: the move of the Holy See from Rome to Avignon. From 1309 to 1377, the papal capital was in this small city near the mouth of the Rhone. It was then that a palace for the pontiffs was built in Avignon, and a country residence (chateau) was built in the northern outskirts of the city.
Unlike the perfectly preserved palace, the castle was badly damaged during the Second World War.

Local producers are allowed to use a special bottle with a relief image of the papal coat of arms.

If in other appellations of France one, two or a maximum of four grape varieties are grown, then in Châteauneuf-du-Pape up to 13 varieties are traditionally cultivated (Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Terre Noir, Vacarese, Muscardin, Picpoul, Counoise-reds, Clairette , Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Picardin - white), having completely different characteristics. But the main variety is Grenache, complemented by Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Most of the wines are characterized as “spicy” and “warm”, which is typical for Rhone varieties. But many producers produce lighter and fruitier wines, in which there is almost no spice.

But still, the classic red Châteauneuf is a strong, warm wine in which power and grace are in harmony. These wines are usually full-bodied and richly structured. The bouquet of this wine is one of the richest and most original in the world: aromas of red and black berries, garrigue (aromatic herbs, flowering southern shrubs, especially anise, thyme and lavender), tobacco, leather, spices, minerals. Empyrematic (roasted peanuts, smoke) and sometimes animal and iodine tones are often encountered. And the longer the wine matures, the more noticeable are the aromas of tobacco, leather and exotic spices. The ripening of the best wines lasts from 6 to 12 years, the aging potential is up to 20-25 years.

However, it should be noted that the quality and style of wines vary greatly depending on the producer. There are quite a few relatively simple and light samples, mainly from so-called merchants who buy grapes or wine materials and bottle them under their own brand in hundreds of thousands of liters per year.

And the stylistic differences are associated primarily with the diversity and heterogeneity of soils, as well as with the fact that winemakers can use all 13 permitted varieties, or just one single one - Grenache. Most winemakers still prefer an assemblage with a base of Grenache with the addition of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. In addition, there is a different approach to aging: both small barrels with a volume of a little over two hundred liters and large foudres are used.

White Chateauneuf du Pape is produced in very small quantities - about 6%. It is created mainly on the basis of Roussanne (with the addition of Clairette). These wines are scented with tropical fruits. Life span is up to 5-8 years.

Gigondas (Zhigondas). The wine production area from this region is located north of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On an area of ​​1216 hectares, grape varieties Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Grenache are cultivated. Black Grenache should occupy no more than 80% of the plantings in the vineyards of one producer, and Syrah and Mourvedre should not be less than 15%. All varieties used for wines of the regional Côtes du Rhône appellation are also permitted, but the area planted with Carignan must not exceed 10%. And although Gigondas resembles the neighboring Chateauneuf-du-Pan, it is still slightly inferior to it in richness and harmony. However, these wines can also be called excellent, combining power with elegance. The bouquet contains: garrigue, plum, fruit seeds, licorice, black pepper. Overall quite subtle and complex wines.

Vacqeyras (Vacqueras). 1400ha. Mostly red wines, some rosé and white. The main grape varieties are the same Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, the auxiliary varieties are those used for wines of the regional Côtes du Rhône appellation, with the exception of Carignan. White varieties - Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier. The wines are very similar in their organoleptic properties to the wines from Gigondas.
Wines from the best producers of Vaqueras and Gigondas require bottle aging - even after 5-6 years they must be decanted or left to mature for another couple of years.

Tavel (Tavel). The best French rosé wine, Tavel, is made from nine grape varieties cultivated on an area of ​​900 hectares, but the majority of wines are based on Grenache. Wine is produced either by simultaneously pressing berries of red and white varieties or by assembling (mixing) must from different varieties before or after fermentation. Tavel is best consumed young when it has a strong fruity aroma. However, it is believed that wine from the Tavel region can last slightly longer than other rosé wines from other regions of France. The bouquet is complex: red berries, sweet stone fruits, spices, the wines are quite dense, round, velvety - “buttery”, as experts say - and at the same time elegant, with a delicate aroma. As it ages, notes of candied fruit and toasted almonds begin to emerge. This wine is also interesting because it goes well with a wide variety of dishes.
This wine is one of the best rosé wines in France. He was loved by Balzac, Louis IX, Pope Clement V and many others. “The sun in a jug” - this is what the famous French poet Pierre Ronsard said about Tavel rose wine.

Lirac (Lirak). Next door is a 780-hectare vineyard producing red, white and rosé wines similar to Gigondas.

Muscat de Beaumes de Venise (Muscat de Beaumes de Venise). The Baume de Venise vineyard produces some of the finest French sweet wines. The wine has an exceptional aroma and magnificent golden color thanks to Muscat grapes. During wine production, fermentation is artificially interrupted by the addition of alcohol. The result is a rather sweet vin doux naturel (vin doux naturel) - a naturally sweet wine with a minimum sugar content of 110 g per liter and an alcohol content of 15-18%. To preserve freshness, fortified muscats are kept for a short time and usually in neutral containers, much less often in oak barrels. They are characterized by bright aromas of white flowers (linden, jasmine, verbena), spices, honey, apricots, apricot jam, dried apricots, melon, citrus, tropical fruits, eucalyptus, rosewood, musk, mint.
Rasteau (Rasteau). The method of producing wine is the same as in Baume de Venise - by adding grape alcohol to the must, resulting in a sweet wine with a stunning aroma. The Rasteau vineyard produces wine exclusively from Grenache grapes (in its three varieties - Black, Gray, White). Aging should be completed no earlier than September 1 of the post-harvest year.

Black Grenache wine has aromas of prunes and spices; with age, the so-called rancio aroma develops - as in wines such as sherry and Madeira. This is a wine that can develop for 10 years or more, revealing complex aromas of dried fruits, tobacco, coffee and chocolate notes.

The Rhone Valley also produces original white sparkling wines under the appellations Clairette de Die and Crément de Die using the traditional (champagne) method. And in Clairette de Die they sometimes also use the so-called “grandfather’s” method (métode ancestrale), which is considered the most ancient method of producing sparkling wines. Its essence is as follows: when, during fermentation, the alcohol content in the wort reaches several percent, it is bottled (unlike champagne without the addition of edition liqueur), and due to the still high sugar content, fermentation continues in a sealed bottle. To get rid of sediment, several methods are practiced: a) pouring into another bottle through a filter, b) disgorgement, c) pouring into a large container, filtering and bottling. Adding dosage (expedition) liqueur is prohibited.

There are also several outlying regions that administratively belong to the Rhone Valley, although some of them are too far from the valley: Côteaux du Tricastin, Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes du Vivarais, Côtes du Luberon (Côte du Luberon), Costières de Nîmes (Costier de Nîmes). Most of these wines are somewhat lighter than the powerful, muscular wines from the Côtes du Rhône. The Costières de Nîmes region is located on the border of the two regions of the Rhône Valley and the Languedoc and has more in common with the Languedoc.

Based on materials from http://www.vins-rhone.com and Yuri Zybtsev’s book “Wines of France”