The idea of ​​conquering the highest mountain first occurred to a person, most likely in ancient times.

But only on May 29, 1953, at 11:30 a.m., New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first to conquer Everest, a mountain 8848 meters high.

The news broke worldwide on June 2, the day of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation, which was hailed by the British as a good omen for the future of their country.

Everest is a majestic Chomolungma, located at the top of the Great Himalayas in Asia on the border between Nepal and Tibet. In Tibetan, this peak is called Qomolungma, which means "Mother Goddess of the Earth", the English name given in honor of Sir George Everest, the 19th century British geographer in India. The summit of Everest is two-thirds the thickness of the Earth's entire air atmosphere. This is almost the maximum cruising altitude of jet airliners. The oxygen content there is extremely low, and the temperature is very low, the weather is completely unpredictable and very dangerous.

First attempt to conquer Everest

The first recorded attempt to conquer Everest was made in 1921 by a British expedition that traveled more than 400 miles across the Tibetan plateau to get there. A strong storm forced them to interrupt their ascent, but members of the expedition, among whom was George Lee Mallory, determined the ascent route from the north side. When asked by a journalist, “Why do you want to climb this mountain?”, Mallory joked: “Because it exists.”

During the second British expedition in 1922, climbers George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce reached a height of 8230 meters. In Mallory's next attempt that same year, seven Sherpa porters were killed in an avalanche. The Sherpa tribe, who have long lived in the highland Khumbu province, assisted in expeditions from the first attempts to conquer Everest because of their ability to easily endure high altitudes.

In 1924, in the third English expedition to Everest, Edward Norton reached a height of 8500 meters without the use of oxygen apparatus. After him, Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who went to storm the peak, rose to approximately the same height, but after that no one saw them alive again. In 1999, Mallory's body was found on the slope of Everest. Whether he and Irwin reached the top or not remains a mystery.

Several similar attempts to reach the summit from the north from Tibet were unsuccessful. After World War II, Tibet was closed to foreigners. In 1949, Nepal opened its doors to the outside world, and in 1950 and 1951 several British expeditions undertook exploratory ascents along the southern route.

In 1952, a member of the Swiss expedition, Raymond Lambert, and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached an altitude of 8,600 meters, but were forced to turn back due to stormy winds and severe cold.

The Rise of Hillary and Norgay

Having learned about the progress of the Swiss, the British organized a large expedition in 1953 under the command of Colonel John Hunt. In addition to the best British climbers, the expedition included New Zealanders George Lowe, Edmund Hillary and the experienced Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. By the way, they write that Edmund Hillary was not a professional climber, but an ordinary beekeeper.

In April and May, a route was laid across the Khumbu Glacier and through Lhotse along the southern slope. Having prepared several intermediate camps, the expedition began the ascent. The expedition members were equipped with special insulated boots and clothing, and also had a walkie-talkie and oxygen apparatus.

On May 26, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon launched an assault to the summit, but they had to retreat, the summit of Everest remained untouched, due to the failure of oxygen tanks, they did not reach only 300 feet.

On May 28, Hillary and Norgay tried again. With the help of their companions, they set up a high altitude camp at 27,900 feet. After somehow spending the night there, they set off in the morning. At 9 o'clock in the morning they reached the South Summit. Then we spent more than an hour overcoming the rock that stood in the way.

After this, having crossed the last snowdrifts, at about 11:30 am the climbers found themselves at the top of the peak. We spent about 15 minutes at the top. Hillary took a photo of Tenzing at the top, but refused to be photographed himself. After which we began the return descent.

At the upper camp they were met by escorts. After their descent to base camp, John Hunt sent a runner with a message to Namche Bazaar from where a coded message was sent to London.

Who was the first to conquer Everest - Hillary and Norgay?

There is still debate about who exactly was the first to conquer Everest - Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

According to Norgay himself, he was the first to reach the summit Edmund Hillary.

But according to Hillary, they rose to the top at the same time. However, there is a photograph of Tenzing standing on the top of Everest, taken by Edmund.

While there is no such photo of Hillary. According to Norgay, Hillary did not want to be photographed, citing fatigue and the long descent ahead, which is a little strange, given all the work and importance of this event. Which leads to certain thoughts.

Pioneer Awards

On June 1, on the eve of her coronation, Queen Elizabeth II learned of this achievement. And the next day, the news spread all over the world. That same year, Hillary and Hunt were knighted by the Queen.

Tenzing was unable to receive a knighthood for political reasons, but in return received the St. George's Medal as a reward. This is how Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay entered world history as the people who conquered the highest mountain in the world.

In 1960, a Chinese expedition was the first to climb Qomolangma from Tibet, and in 1963, James Whittaker became the first American to climb Everest. In 1975, Tabei Junko from Japan became the first woman to reach the top. Three years later, Reinhold Messner of Italy and Peter Habeler of Austria reached the summit of Everest, without oxygen.

Over the entire period, almost two hundred climbers died trying to conquer the mountain. The biggest tragedy occurred in 1996, when eight climbers from different countries died during a severe storm. But despite all these dangers, Everest still attracts many climbers from all over the world who want to visit the roof of the world. The flow of those going for the assault is not decreasing.

Everest. A mysterious mountain peak, majestic and formidable at the same time. Everest inspires artists and poets, for example, Nicholas Roerich has a stunning painting of the Himalayas. Everest".

And at the same time, Everest, a mountain that has claimed many human lives, has not forgiven mistakes and neglect. Over the course of the known history of climbing Everest, more than 250 people have died.

Landslides, avalanches, thin air, snowstorms, Everest has many surprises and challenges in store for climbers.

Chomolungma, as Everest is otherwise called, was discovered by Europeans back in the 19th century. At the same time, the height of the mountain was calculated and the assumption was made that it was the highest in the world.

In 1921, a British-funded reconnaissance expedition took place and included George Mallory, who became the first person to set foot on Everest. However, the peak was never conquered. This was followed by the second and third British expeditions.

The participants of the third British expedition, George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who died during the ascent, are associated with disputes that have not subsided to this day. Were they able to reach the top of Everest? A question that still does not have a clear answer.

According to the current official version, Everest was conquered much later. Only in 1953 the mountain peak was conquered. On May 29, 1953, members of the next, sixteenth expedition, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, reached their goal.

So who was the first in the world to conquer Everest? Do we agree with the generally accepted version and consider Edmund Hillary and Tenzin Norgay as the discoverers of Everest, who left candies buried in the snow at the top?

Or will we try to solve the mystery of the climbers of the third expedition? Probably each of us should answer this question for ourselves.

A severe test for climbers

Climbing Mount Everest has presented one of the toughest challenges for climbers since 1852, when explorations revealed it to be the highest point on the earth's surface. Only 101 years later, on May 29, 1953 at 11:30 a.m., a person first climbed to the top of the world - Mount Everest. “I looked at Tenzing and, despite the fact that his face was hidden by a knitted helmet, goggles and an oxygen mask, completely covered with icicles, I saw that he was looking around with an infectious smile.”

These lines were written by New Zealander Edmund Hillary at the moment when he and the Nepalese, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, became the conquerors of the highest peak in the world, rising 8848 meters above sea level. Newspapers reported that the climbers had reached a height of 8,840 meters, according to measurements taken by a British expedition in the mid-19th century. It is now generally accepted that the height of Everest corresponds to measurements taken by an Indian government expedition in 1954, a year after the historic ascent.

Hillary and Norgay

Hillary and Norgay spent 15 jubilant minutes on top of the world, and each left Everest a gift as a token of gratitude: Norgay buried candy and cookies as an offering to the deities of the mountain, Hillary left a cross. The quarter hour at the summit was the culmination of many months of intense and meticulous planning, as well as the combined efforts of a team of 10 climbers and 5 Sherpa guides. Three days earlier, an attempt by two other members of the expedition had failed, but Hillary and Norgay returned victorious and reported that the “symmetrical, beautiful cone covered with snow” was noticeably different from the gloomy rocky ridge visible from below. Just a week later, on June 7, Hillary and the head of the expedition, English Colonel John Hunt, were knighted, and Norgay was awarded the British George Cross.

News of the expedition's success reached Great Britain on June 1, on the eve of the coronation of Elizabeth II, and the next day pushed the description of the coronation outfit onto the back page of the News Chronicle, on the front page of which was the headline: "Crown of Glory: Everest Conquered."

Everest tragedies

By the way, Edmund Hillary was a professional beekeeper. In 1958 he traveled to the South Pole, and in 1985 to the North Pole. In 1990, his son Peter climbed to the top of Everest, and 18 years later the first conqueror of Everest, Edmund Hilary (1919-2008), died.

The conquest of Everest was accompanied by a large number of previous tragedies: although to date more than 1,000 climbers have already conquered the highest mountain in the world, about 200 people have died in different years while attempting to climb.

So, let's trace the entire chronology of events related to the conquest of Everest.

Chronology 1921-1975

1921 During the first reconnaissance expedition (British) sent to Everest, Dr. Kellas and an unnamed Sherpa died at the foot of the mountain and were the first to be included in the list of Everest casualties.

1922 During the second, also British expedition to Everest, seven Sherpas die in an avalanche below the North Col (pass) and become the first people to die while climbing Everest.

1924 Mallory and Irwin, part of the third British expedition to Everest, rise above 8534 m, but they fail to descend. (The question remains unclear when exactly they died - during the ascent or on the way back, therefore, having managed to be the first to reach the summit).

1953, May 29. Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) become the first people to reach the summit of Everest.

1963 James Whittaker becomes the first American to reach the summit of Mt.

1975, May. The first woman to climb Everest is Junko Tabei (Japan). September. Dougal Haston (Scotland) and Doug Skope (England) become the first British men to conquer Everest.

Chronology 1978 - present day

1978 Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeper (Austria) are the first to reach the summit without oxygen supplies.

1980 Reinhold Messner (Italy) makes the first solo ascent.

1984 Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer become the first Australians to reach the summit, and at the same time the first to climb the North Face without oxygen.

Dmitry Demyanov, Samogo.Net (

The first ones. Almost two meters tall, New Zealander Edmund Hillary photographed a diminutive Sherpa on a snow dome with a raised ice ax decorated with flags of the UN, Great Britain, Nepal and India. Climbers using oxygen devices, May 29, 1953. (Photo by Edmund Hillary | Royal Geographical Society via Associated Press):

More than 30 Sherpas took part in this expedition. In the photo: New Zealander Edmund Hillary and his group climb Everest, 1953. (Photo (New York Times):

New Zealander Edmund Hillary (right) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay climbing the world's highest peak, 1953. (Photo by Associated Press):

The first conquerors of Everest are New Zealander Edmund Hillary (right) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, 1953. (Photo by George W. Hales | Hulton Archive via Getty Images):

Another photo of the first people to climb Everest in 1953. (Photo by Norgay Archive via Reuters):

Exactly 60 years later, Kathmandu, Nepal, May 29, 2013. Journalists remove the monument to New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. (Photo by Niranjan Shrestha | Associated Press):

The first successful ascent was preceded by 30 years of desperate attempts to get to the top. Everest, May 15, 2003. (Photo by Paula Bronstein | Getty Images):

It still remains a mystery and a subject of debate whether George Mallory and Andrew Irwin reached the summit in 1924. The body of the former was found only in 1999. at an altitude of 8,155 meters, 300 meters below the ice ax Irwin (whose body has not yet been found), indicating a possible fall of the climbers from the mountain. Sunglasses were found in Mallory's pocket, but the photo of his wife Ruth, whom he promised to leave at the top of Everest, was not found! (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

By the way, the phrase “conquering Everest” is not entirely correct, and climbers do not like it. This is in the same area as “swimming the sea.” It is believed that a mountain cannot be conquered, it can only be climbed. In this case, the mountain can “let” or “not let”. Another team of climbers at base camp, April 7, 2003. Puja ceremony (ceremony of worship of God). (Photo by Erich Schlegel | The Dallas Morning News via Associated Press):

The first to determine that Qomolungma is the highest mountain peak on Earth was the Indian mathematician and topographer Radhanath Sikdar in 1852, based on trigonometric calculations, when he was in India 240 km from Qomolungma. On the slopes of Everest, April 27, 2013. (Photo by AFP | Getty Images):

In 1856, the British India Survey made the first measurement of the height of the peak - exactly 29,000 feet (8,839 m), but declared the height of Qomolungma to be 29,002 feet (8,840 m). This arbitrary addition was made so that the round number 29,000 would not give the impression that the measurement accuracy was low. Everest, January 14, 2011. (Photo by Prakash Mathema | AFP | Getty Images):

Since April 8, 2010, the official height of Everest has been fixed at 8848 m above sea level, and the height of solid rock is 8844 meters. Conquest of Everest. Height 5,944 meters, May 13, 1999. (Photo by Associated Press):

Records. In 1996, Ang Rita Sherpa reached the summit 10 times without oxygen tanks. Four years later, his record was broken by another Sherpa, Apa, who reached the summit for the 11th time. In total, Appa Tenzing reached the top of Everest 21 times (data valid as of May 2011). Kumbhu Icefall on the slope of Everest, May 17, 2003. (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

Records. In 1999, Sherpa Babu Shiri spent 21 hours at the top, and this despite the fact that already at an altitude of 7925 m the dead zone begins - the air contains only a third of the amount of oxygen that is present in the atmosphere at sea level. Climbing Everest, May 1, 1963. The success of this expedition was achieved thanks to the talent of Jim Whittaker, the first American to conquer Everest. (AP Photo | Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library, Barry Corbet Personal Papers and Films):

In 2001, a blind American, Eric Weihenmayer, made an amazing ascent to Everest. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all continents. “By climbing the seven highest mountains in seven parts of the world, I hoped to show people that goals that may seem out of reach are actually quite achievable,” Weihenmayer said in a statement. Everest, November 15, 1983. (Photo by Bikas Das | Associated Press):

Conquering Everest is a very long process. The climb to the top takes about 2 months, including acclimatization and setting up camps. Weight loss after climbing is on average 10-15 kg. On May 23, 2013, 80-year-old Japanese Yuichiro Miura, having completed the ascent, became the oldest person to conquer Everest. (Photo by MIURA DOLPHINS Co., Ltd via Associated Press):

In May 2011, Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakta Kumar Rai set a new record for the longest stay on the summit - 32 hours. Everest conquerors with a tent (bottom left), October 13, 2011. (Photo by Barbara Walton | European Pressphoto Agency):

From the time of the first ascent to the peak (1953) to the present (2013), more than 200 people have died on its slopes. The body of a deceased climber is lowered, May 16, 2010. (Photo by NAMGYAL SHERPA | AFP | Getty Images):

Even the most expensive and modern equipment does not always guarantee a successful ascent to the highest peak in the world. However, every year about 500 people try to conquer Everest. Everest Expedition, May 18, 2013. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press):

In total, approximately 4,000 climbers have climbed the mountain to date. The bodies of the dead often remain on the slopes of the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their evacuation. Some of them serve as landmarks for climbers. Thus, the body of the Hindu Tsewang Paljor, who died in 1996, marks an altitude of 8,500 meters and even has its own name - “Green Shoes” - after the bright green shoes of the deceased. Top of the World, April 22, 2007. (Photo by Desmond Boylan | Reuters):

Countries on whose territory the approaches to the peak are located charge a lot of money for climbing to the top. Also, money is charged for the possibility of lifting. The order of ascent of the expeditions is established. The cheapest way to conquer Chomolungma is from Tibet. Conquest of Everest, May 19, 2009. (Photo by AFP | Getty Images):

Conquering Everest is for the rich. The cost of climbing is up to $65,000, with the climbing permit alone, issued by the Nepalese government, costing $10,000. A significant portion of travelers reaching the summit are now wealthy tourists with minimal mountaineering experience. On the way to the top of Everest, May 18, 2003. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS, via Associated Press):

Records. On May 22, 2010, the summit was conquered by 13-year-old American Jordan Romero (right), who climbed with his father. Previously, the record belonged to 15-year-old Min Kipa Sherpa. (Photo by Team Romero via Associated Press):

In the 21st century, thanks to the development of tourism infrastructure, there has been a significant increase in annual ascents, so if in 1983 8 people reached the summit, in 1990 about forty, then in 2012 234 people climbed Everest in just one day. During the ascent, there were hours-long traffic jams and even fights between climbers. (Photo by Tshering Sherpa | AFP | Getty Images):

The volume of garbage accumulated on the slopes of the mountain is so great that Everest is called “the highest mountainous landfill in the world.” At the top of Everest, May 22, 2010. (Photo by Apa Sherpa via European Pressphoto Agency):

In April 2013, Nepal police were investigating a fight between famous European climbers and their Sherpa guides that allegedly took place on the approaches to the summit of Everest. The dispute reportedly arose after the climbers ignored orders to pause their climb while the Sherpas fixed ropes. Mount Everest, May 26, 2003. (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

According to an American climber who observed the conflict, who wished to remain anonymous, “the fight was so intense that I was afraid that one of the participants would die.” Everest conquerors fought with Sherpas at an altitude of 8,000 meters. On top of the world, May 18, 2013. (Photo by ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS via Associated Press):

The most difficult section of the Everest climb is the last 300 m, nicknamed by mountain climbers “the longest mile on Earth.” To successfully complete this section, you need to overcome a steep, smooth rock slope covered with powdery snow. Base camp on the way to the summit of Everest, May 16, 2013. (Photo by AP Photo | Pasang Geljen Sherpa):

The main season for climbing to the top is spring and autumn, as there are no monsoons at this time. The most suitable season for climbing the southern and northern slopes is spring. In autumn you can only climb from the south. Camp at an altitude of 7,315 meters. (AP Photo | Courtesy of Alan Arnette via The Coloradoan):

This was an article dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the conquest of Everest. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press):

(Photo by AP Photo | Hiroyuki Kuraoka, HO):

Sir Edmund Hillary, the man who accomplished the impossible for his time - for the first time conquered the highest mountain peak in the world, Everest (Chomolungma), has passed away in New Zealand.

The legendary climber became the most famous New Zealander who ever lived, not only for his climbing, but also for his charity work. Hillary has devoted many years to improving the conditions in which Nepalese Sherpas, who often serve as porters in mountaineering teams, live.

An honorary citizen of New Zealand and Nepal, Edmund Hillary has died at the age of 88. His health had seriously deteriorated in the last six months after he suffered a bad fall while in Nepal.

The climber was born in 1919 in Auckland, New Zealand. During World War II, Hillary served as a military pilot and then took up mountaineering.

The famous ascent to Everest was made by Edmund Hillary on May 29, 1953, together with the Nepalese Sherpa Tenqin Norgay, living in southern Nepal.

That day they climbed the 8,848-metre peak of the Himalayas on the Nepal-India border, planting the flags of Great Britain, Nepal, India and the United Nations at the top.

The news of this appeared on June 2, 1953, on the day of the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, who awarded Hillary a knighthood. Sherpa Tengqin Norgay received a medal from the Queen.

Edmund Hillary worked with the Sherpas in Nepal for many years: with money from his foundation, hospitals and clinics, bridges, a small airfield and about 30 schools were built. In 2003, as the world celebrated the 50th anniversary of the conquest of Everest, a New Zealander was made an honorary citizen of Nepal.

The first Soviet conquerors of Everest

A lot has been written and said about the history of the conquest of Everest. For the first time, Soviet climbers, Vladimir Balyberdin and Eduard Myslovsky, climbed the highest peak in the world on May 4, 1982.

Over the course of five days, nine more climbers climbed Everest: Sergey Bershov and Mikhail Turkevich, Vyacheslav Ivanov and Sergey Efimov, Kazbek Valiev and Valery Khrishchaty. The last to set foot on the summit were Valery Khomutov, Vladimir Puchkov and Yuri Golodov. This happened on May 9.

The success of this expedition was repeated by Krasnoyarsk climbers only fifteen years later. And in 1998, Vladimir Lysenko completed a solo kayak trip on the Rong Chu River on the Tibetan side of Everest.

In the entire history of climbing the world's highest mountain peak, dozens of people have died without reaching their goal.

According to statistics, until 1973, 28 people climbed to the top, and 29 died on the way to it. Among the dead is rock climber George Mallory, who three decades before Hillary went to the summit and went missing. Some historians of mountaineering still attribute the primacy in conquering Everest to Mallory.

Nowadays, climbing Everest is a popular tourist route that can be completed by almost anyone. This is not surprising, given the entire arsenal of auxiliary aids and technical devices that currently exist, including cylinders with artificial oxygen.

The most unusual climbs to Everest

Meanwhile, even now, climbers never cease to amaze with their risky ascents. So, in 1999, a resident of Nepal, Sherpa Babu Shiri, spent 21 hours at the top, and this despite the fact that already at an altitude of 7,925 km a dead zone begins, where only one-third of the oxygen that is present at sea level is concentrated.

The record holder for visiting the summit of Everest is Ang Rita Sherpa, who visited here 10 times without oxygen tanks in 1996. His record, four years later, was broken by another resident of Nepal, Apa Sherpa, who reached the summit for the 11th time.

In 2001, the amazing feat of climbing Everest was accomplished by a blind American, Eric Weihenmayer. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all seven continents.

“By climbing the seven highest mountains on seven continents, I hoped to show people that goals that may seem out of reach are actually within reach,” Weihenmayer said in a statement.

Currently, the success of the expedition directly depends on the weather and equipment of travelers. However, climbing the world's highest mountain should be considered a great challenge for everyone, regardless of their level of preparation. After all, getting to a height of 8,848 meters is still half the battle; you still need to overcome a difficult descent, for example on a snowboard, as Stefan Gatt did in 2001.

The material was prepared by the online editors of www.rian.ru based on information from RIA Novosti and open sources